MR1 Fork Leg Modification.

[englishstiv]

Hi there folks

Well I have tried just about every avenue available to source a damper unit for my MR1 with no success. So my only alternative is to remove and blank off the damper.

Simple enough and a lot cheaper and I can imagine no different than doing the same as I did to my old Kawa GPZ600 that had similar items on each leg acting as elaborate anti dive units.

My only Question is will this have any huge impact on the performance of Forks?

My second is once again - has anyone got a spare unit they want to sell?

my other thread on this is here http://forums.ducatipaso.org/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=3615

Many thanks

[ducinthebay]

You cant block it off, and expect the fork to still function properly. The oil orifice is in that unit, and that's what changes the damping. The oil comes in one hole and out the next. The dial switches between different orifice sizes. If you block it off, the fork will not function. It will just lock up. The Kawasaki one was certainly an antidive devise. The M1R is the damping control.

I have a spare one, but it goes with the spare fork I have. I will lend it to you, but I won't sell it, as I will need it when the fork goes on my single project bike.
ping me off line. phildotstobatgmaildotcom ;~)
Of course, the best way to get one is to keep asking, and troll e-bay regularly.

If you have a machinist friend, they can make a block that fits on there and you can simply drill the passage to fit your damping needs. Its simple enough, two mounting holes and two oil holes with a passage between the two.

Cheers,

[englishstiv]

Many thanks for this and thank you for your kind loan offer, sadly as I am over the "pond" so to speak, I feel it best to decline, but a big thank you.

Looks like I am gonna have to keep searching then?

Is there any where I could get the damper housing serviced the main adjustment gear wheel on top is pretty mashed up?

Does any one know if there is a similar type of unit used by marzocchi on another bike that might duplicate the action of this unit?

[ducinthebay]

if yours doesn't leak, then call it good and use it. You don't get the adjustability, but you have a functioning fork. You just have to adjust the damping by changing the oil weight, the old fashioned way.

Cheers,

[Duc906]

906 forks for sale here http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1990-90- ... ccessories

[blazing928]

G'day
why not just get Gold valves put in them.
I am sending mine off to ASR [in Victoria Aust!] tomorrow for rebound and compression valves.
Problem sorted, new technlogy for our bikes.
[i am also ordering a Wilbers rear shock, comp/rebound/high & low speed circuits, you can also get a adjustable height unit]

[injected]

Do you know the part numbers of the Gold Valves they're putting in? Racetech don't list one for the 907.

Which Wilbers shock are you getting?

[guzzitech]

i have a few M1R sets for parts....just contact off list. info@ducpower.com

Best setup for M1R's is light fork oil- 5 or 7w. Make sure anti-friction bushings at bottom of fork legs are in good shape. Gold valves work OK....not really necessary for a street bike,though. There are too many variables on the street to tune a suspension with any great deal of precision such as what the gold valves afford. I'd just start out light on damping.

Ed

[ducinthebay]

I agree with Ed, but if you want the full monty, here's an article for you.
http://www.laverdamania.com/emulatorgb.htm
It seems the M1R was also used on Laverdas, and those guys seem to spend more time writing about their forks.
That should also be a hint for you e-bay addicts.

Now, should I use the shorter 907 springs, or the longer 750 springs in my forks? (of course adjusted with spacers to fit)

Cheers,

[whitepaso]

M1R's were used on early Buells as well - probably not helpful - but you never know....

[blazing928]

i have a few M1R sets for parts....just contact off list. info@ducpower.com

Gold valves work OK....not really necessary for a street bike,though. There are too many variables on the street to tune a suspension with any great deal of precision such as what the gold valves afford. Ed

granted I agree its overkill and not really cheap, but that has always been my way! Any tuning is going to be better than not being able to adjust the fork. OZ roads can be pretty crap, so having compression adjustment to stop/slow the bottoming out on a big pot hole or whoop de whoop should be a good safety addition.

Surely better rebound and the ability to adjust compression is better than not, or having to keep changing oil or mixing up different grades.

Its a pretty standard modification to a lot of forks, that is very succesful, so why not for a 907?
-------------------
I will ask what model Goldvalves he uses and the shock model when I get them, the shock will not be here for about 6 weeks. I am considering the hydraulic preload as well but its another $400. Stiil going from tour to street mode, thats a 40 kg difference in weight. ASR [www.asr.com.au] is pretty confident the shock won't need it.

[Mc tool]

My knob is mangled too... but the thing still works, just a pain in the ass to adjust...... so I dont

[blazing928]

Do you know the part numbers of the Gold Valves they're putting in? Racetech don't list one for the 907.

Which Wilbers shock are you getting?

Hi, so an update......
the M1r forks I have are not able to have gold valves fitted!
Perhaps the reason why Ractech has no fitment #.

Its interesting as other suspension vendors told me yes they do fit, we have done it. Perhaps they take you money and run! I have seen a 907 advertised with Goldvalves fitted!

There is apparently different versions of the M1r and mine have a tapered damper shaft, so while you could fit Goldvalves they wouldn't do anything. Total waste of money!

He called a shop in Sydney [Wilbers dealer] who has some more knowledge of M1Rs and was told to do different oil weight in the compression leg and some mod to the shaft washer, ????? whatever that means!
The bushes at the bottom are completely stuffed, a replacement comes from a BMW fork.
Also my springs were showing 0.75, where as I need 0.95 for my weight [80kg] and my intention to tour with luggage, so new springs are being installed.

Apparently they will be a lot better, but as I have no base line I guess I will have to trust their experience, so when someone else rides my bike they will be able to give some feedback [Jaffa???]

Anyway they well and truly needed a service.

The rear Wilbers is the 631 model. I am getting the remote preload adjuster, seeming I saved all that money on Goldvalves!

He said that for a 40kg load increase you should go up a spring rate, so when carring a pillion or lots of luggage , being able to adjust the preload will keep the bike level and in the shocks sweet spot.
His opinion is that the rear is more important than the front.

Again the proof will be in the riding

The shop is ASR Suspension, [www.asr.com.au]

ciao