What am I getting into here, w/ the clutch ... leak? O-ring?

[fasterdammit]

I haven't pulled anything apart yet, but I think something is amiss inside the clutch. I have the sinking feeling that I'll be digging it over the weekend, but I just wanted to put the 'symptoms' across you guys to make sure I'm not imagining things.

I've replaced the M/C and the line, and finally got enough pressure bled up so I can ride the bike. However, I noticed last night there were a couple spots under it that didn't appear to be oil; and there seems to be some splatter coming out of the two vents on the panel under the seat, along with some more on the frame plate near the brake footpeg. It also appears that the paint around the clutch cover is starting to flake away, it seems more so than I recall when I bled the clutch.

If the o-ring in the slave is shot, am I correct in thinking the clutch fluid is going to find its way out all around the cover (and not just through the two holes in the bottom)? And I'm only guessing the o-ring because 1) the bike is 22 years old and 2) it seems to be a popular wear item.

I do have a manual, which I haven't looked into yet (tonight) but I wanted to appeal to the collective knowledge base here before I started turning spanners. So thanks in advance. I know this is all rather vague, and I apologize ... but before I pop off the clutch cover, anything I should keep in mind?

[88WhitePaso750]

Just replaced O-ring on my 88 Paso 750. I was directed to do so by my local dealer. Originally I was going to use an X-Ring but was unable to find any at a reasonable cost/quantity. I used a Viton O-ring to replace the bad one. I cleaned up the piston and cylinder with steel wool prior to reassembly. An easy enough job thanks to the dry clutch. One note: I used a Mighty Vac to bleed the assembly after replacement. It worked fast and would be the only way I would suggest doing it.

I can't speak to miles ridden since replacement, my bike has been sitting on stand since, waiting with bad chain. I hope my chainbreaker / rivet tool shows up soon.



Good luck.

Chris

[fasterdammit]

Ok, upon closer inspection, the issue doesn't appear to revolve around the clutch, instead it looks like it might be a seal around what looks like a neutral sensor switch or something (guessing; still haven't looked into the book). Definitely not easy to get to. Sound familiar to anyone?

[jcslocum]

Ok, upon closer inspection, the issue doesn't appear to revolve around the clutch, instead it looks like it might be a seal around what looks like a neutral sensor switch or something (guessing; still haven't looked into the book). Definitely not easy to get to. Sound familiar to anyone?

The switch that screws into tha back of the engine?? Just behind the right foot peg? I replaced one becasue it was leaking a few years ago. Get the new one first and you will see how it screws in. The wire is the issue. Easy to do once you have it in hand.

[paso750]

sidenote

The seal of the neutral switch actually serves two functions. It`s seal and washer at the same time. It does exist in 2 thicknesses (I think it`s 0,5 & 1mm). When putting a new switch in you should screw it in by hand without the washer, connect an ohm meter to it and turn it out only so far that you still can measure a short. Then take a feeler gauge and measure clearance of switch to engine case. Normally the washer needed is a 0,5mm. Of course the bike needs to be in neutral position.
If the clearance is too small there`s higher mechanical pressure on the switch and it may break down earlier.

G.

[fasterdammit]

I love this forum.

[fasterdammit]

The switch that screws into tha back of the engine?? Just behind the right foot peg? I replaced one becasue it was leaking a few years ago. Get the new one first and you will see how it screws in. The wire is the issue. Easy to do once you have it in hand.

Ok, here's a question for you (make that two): how the heck did you get in there? LOL I don't have catcher's mits, but my paws aren't dainty either. I bet if I pull the tank I can get to it from above ok, and possibly from the left side - but the bigger issue is what kind of tool did you use to unscrew the switch? There's hardly any clearance around it, since it's recessed into the case. Just unplug the wire from the harness and slide a thin-walled box wrench onto it? Or something like an oxygen sensor socket?

Ok, maybe more than 2 questions. Last one: you wouldn't happen have Ducati's part number for it, would you?

[Fraser]

Hey Faster,

I used a long box spanner. It was out of a really cheap blister pack that had about 6 long box spanners, think it cost $9.00. Terrible quality and I've never used it for anything else, but worked just fine.

Cheers,

Fraser.

[fasterdammit]

Hey Faster,

I used a long box spanner. It was out of a really cheap blister pack that had about 6 long box spanners, think it cost $9.00. Terrible quality and I've never used it for anything else, but worked just fine.

Cheers,

Fraser.

Yeah, I stumbled upon the same solution. The nut on that switch is a 13mm, if anyone's reading this in the future and wondering. Unhooked the wires from the harness & ran them through the 'box', then turned it about 1/8 a turn at a time until I could spin the switch out the rest of the way by hand. What a nuisance.

That switch almost seems like an after thought from Ducati; the recess is very limiting in terms of what it will accept, and access to it is pretty slim - in between the frame brace, clutch cover & clutch line/bleed screw. Nevermind getting your hands in there.

I have a feeling mine had simply loosened itself, since I barely nudged it w/ the spanner to break it free. So we'll see; rode it today, but not far enough to determine if it's still blowing anything by.