Back into my 89 900 Supersport

[fester]

Hey guys, firstly thank god you guys are back on deck. Just got back into my SS not long ago, just before the site crashed. Was on here years ago when I first started playing with it but haven't been riding it for a couple of years. Did some mods last time with a 916 front end but with lack of use found it a bit of a waste and also the bike seemed to be changing each time I did get it out and was struggling to get the hang of it, especially with it being the first time on big rear rubber.
Here's a couple of the only pics I've got at present when I was playing last time.

So at present it still has the later remote res clutch and brake with adjustable levers, the 916 switch gear, 38mm Mikuni conversion, 48mm straight through cans and vented clutch.

Otherwise I returned it pretty much to stock.

[fester]

Found a PDF file on line with the measurements for milling the clutch cover so got an old CAD program off a bloke we do business with who has a small CNC mill (among other things). Taught myself to draw the cutting file and got a second cover just in case. Cost me a carton of beer to get 2 covers machined up

My original cans were a bit sad with some road rash and the ally a bit out of shape. So I cleaned up the end caps and welded up the gouges and repolished them then rolled some 48mm perf tube, filled them with stainless steel wool and stuffed them in some 4" stainless tube. Good as new.


Sounds pretty tough if not a little loud (can a Ducati be too loud). The original cans were missing the db killers and were just the baffle tubes inside, not sure if there was originally anything else but they sounded a bit harsh, more like an open piped Harley than a Duke.

[paso750]

that clutch cover turned out really nice. Hopefully with only 9 struts left it´s still strong enough. Care to share the files or at least the pdf you found ?
http://forums.ducatipaso.org/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=6238
The cans look really good as well.

G.

PS: also you pls add your location to the profile

[fester]

that clutch cover turned out really nice. Hopefully with only 9 struts left it´s still strong enough. Care to share the files or at least the pdf you found ?
http://forums.ducatipaso.org/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=6238
The cans look really good as well.

G.

PS: also you pls add your location to the profile

It seems to be holding up so far G and I have since seen a few similar examples since I did mine a few years ago. Took ages to find the info back then though. All the thickened ribs are in tack so I think it is OK. I was going to do the inner slots as well but decided to be a bit cautious. The site where I found the PDF indicated this pattern was from factory races bikes of the day but I can't confirm that at all.

An happy to share the files if I can find them. It was done a couple of laptops ago which have all been replaced due to dieing so I'm not sure if I rescued all my CAD files.

[fester]

So where am I at now:
FCR's in next few weeks hopefully. Was tossing up putting a later airbox assembly in which I have but not sure about removing the crossbrace and not sure if adding the later style one will be as effective in the early frame. Might just remove the battery tray so the air filters sit better and move the battery to back in the V like the later bikes. I remember tuning the Mikunis was a pain with battery tray clearance.

Reg/rec is either gone or playing up. Boiled a wet cell battery previously and replaced that with AGM. Getting the charge light on periodically with no real pattern sometimes for ages then goes away for a while. sometimes looks like higher revs could trigger it but not sure. Haven't investigated yet as bike sits on trickle charger when not used and only does bit of commute at present till issues sorted.

Rear brake is nothing at present, fluid in res and no sign of leak so I'm hoping it's just gummed up. Will pull it down when I get a braided line for it as I'm going to undersling it with the later bracket and same time and original hose look scrap.

Going to mill out the webbing in the footpegs and brake and gear levers to look more billet. Got some LSL knurled footpegs coming and some Woodcraft knurled tips if they get back to me on postage.

Set of Arrow carbon highmount cans should also turn up before Christmas.

Clutch is not working properly. Was before when I overhauled it with cover but very notchy now and near impossible to get first gear. Unless I can grab 1st while still moving at a reasonable pace it just won't happen. if stationary no way, same with neutral. Hopefully it's just gummed up. Fluid is full no obvious sign of leakage but there is rust evidence on the plates etc. Hoping a clean up restores it. Thinking of powdercoating or more so HPC coating all the non friction components to improve the look and stop them rusting again. Friction and solid plates seem harder to get than later bikes and dearer. What components like plates and springs if any can be used from later bikes.

Need to strip and paint motor it looks crappy.

Want to paint frame in something similar to the later gold/bronze, and maybe calipers. Forks and triples have been redone in a silver.

Fairing need doing. Ok from distance but no up close. Might do slight variation on original but really keen to do a tricolore scheme but with original graphics.

Oil cooler lines need replacing with some nice braided ones. Originals look tatty and being so thick really clutter up the headstock area. Also tossing up moving cooler down in frame to declutter headstock area more.

Looking at LSL clip-ons too. Mine look crappy. Is the right hand one supposed to be longer forward of the riser section than the left.? Might wait on this as I'm tossing up changing the front end again to something newer and adjustable. Still old school right side up but say YZF600R (2003ish). Wishing now I had retained the superbike front end.

Would also love to do a single seat copy of the original rear replicating the single seat cover. Not sure if I can be bothered doing that much fibreglassing. The Superlight seat looks good as does the F1 single seat but I like the original fairings and have no desire to change for the sake of it but a single seat would be neater than the bolt on cover which on mine doesn't sit perfectly anyway.

So any help with the current issues and advice on the wishlist would be appreciated.

[Mc tool]

that clutch cover turned out really nice. Hopefully with only 9 struts left it´s still strong enough.

My thoughts exactly ...........but I wasn't going to say anything ... last time I did "someone " shot me down , cant think who that was

[higgy]

Reg/rec is either gone or playing up. Boiled a wet cell battery previously and replaced that with AGM. Getting the charge light on periodically with no real pattern sometimes for ages then goes away for a while. sometimes looks like higher revs could trigger it but not sure. Haven't investigated yet as bike sits on trickle charger when not used and only does bit of commute at present till issues sorted.

It is the death thro of your stator brought on by bad connections and a failing regulator

[paso750]

but not sure about removing the crossbrace

others weld one in for more stability, so removing it may not be the best thing

Reg/rec is either gone or playing up.

Do check the wiring closely and if the ground connection to the reg/rec housing is ok. If you have to replace it I suggest not to get an original but an aftermarket unit. They`re cheaper and better.

Clutch is not working properly. ... Friction and solid plates seem harder to get than later bikes and dearer. What components like plates and springs if any can be used from later bikes.

Check how bad the chatter marks on the clutch basket and drum are. Remove the pressure plate and clean and grease the pin behind it.
The clutch hydraulic is difficult to bleed. There's often air trapped somewhere.
If that's all ok you may have to remove the left engine cover and check the control fork if it`s worn or bent (the one that´s connected to the gear change lever and which turns the drum). If it is ok, too the next would be the gear changing forks...

The clutch springs are the same on most Ducatis:

Ducati Hypermotard 1100 /SP 2011, 2012
Ducati Hypermotard 1100 EVO/SP 2010, 2011
Ducati Hypermotard 1100 /S 2008, 2009
Ducati MH900E /evo 2001, 2002
Ducati Monster 600 `98 Dark
Ducati Monster 750 `00-`01
Ducati Monster 750 IE 2002
Ducati Monster 800 2004
Ducati Monster 900 `98
Ducati Monster 900 i.e. `00-`02
Ducati Monster 1100 /S 2009, 2010
Ducati StreetFighter /S 2010, 2011
Ducati StreetFighter 1098 2012
Ducati 1098 /S 2007, 2008
Ducati 1098 S TRICOLORE 2007
Ducati 1198 /S 2009, 2010
Ducati 1198 S CORSE 2010
Ducati 748 `99
Ducati 748 /S 2002
Ducati 749 R 2004
Ducati 750 Paso `86-`90
Ducati 750 Sport
Ducati 750 F1/Laguna Seca
Ducati 750 SS `91
Ducati 750 Sport 2001, 2002
Ducati 750 SSie 2002
Ducati SuperSport 800 2004
Ducati SuperSport 800 S 2003
Ducati SuperSport 800 SS 2003
Ducati SuperSport 900 2001
Ducati SuperSport 900 Sport 2002
Ducati SuperSport 900 Standard 2002
Ducati 900 SS F.E. `98
Ducati 900 SS inj. `99
Ducati 900 SS/SL `94-`97
Ducati 907 I.E. `92
(and probably also on others)

There are aftermarket stainless steel springs but my experience is that they are stiffer which makes operating the clutch harder.

The original clutch pack is # 19020022A. Alternatives are i.e. Surflex S2076 (for 750 F1 -´88 (2.series), 750 Santamonica '88, Montjuich ´86-´87, Laguna Seca ´87, 750 Sport ´88-´90, 750 SS ´91-´92, 900 SS ´89 -´90, 906 Paso ´89-´90, 750 Paso ´86-´89, 851 SB ´88, 888 Racing ´89) or Surflex S1686 which is the sintered clutch pack

http://ducati-gowanloch.com/catalog/sur ... -3221.html
http://www.cycletreads.co.nz/products/7 ... europ.aspx
or try Stein-Dinse in Healesville, Vic., phone: 006135-9621366

... but really keen to do a tricolore scheme but with original graphics.

Reconsider that. Many tricolores look (imho) just bad but it always depends on how it`s done

the right hand one supposed to be longer forward of the riser section than the left.?

unlikely


PS: the 900SS wiring diagram in the downloads (don`t know for what model year that is) is now in colour

[ducinthebay]

Would also love to do a single seat copy of the original rear replicating the single seat cover. Not sure if I can be bothered doing that much fibreglassing. The Superlight seat looks good as does the F1 single seat but I like the original fairings and have no desire to change for the sake of it but a single seat would be neater than the bolt on cover which on mine doesn't sit perfectly anyway.
So any help with the current issues and advice on the wishlist would be appreciated.

I did my rear seat by adding foam to look like a single seat and having it recovered. Cost $150 for a new cover by a local girl who does motorcycle seats. That way, you can also adjust the size of the seating area to fit you and your riding position. Some single seats are a bit too cramped. Sort out your handlebars first because that may affect your riding position.

If you still have the 40mm forks, I have a set of Thomaselli adjustable clipons that you might be interested in. Of course, the challenge with adjustable clipons, is getting both sides to match.

Cheers, Phil

[Mc tool]

Would also love to do a single seat copy of the original rear replicating the single seat cover. Not sure if I can be bothered doing that much fibreglassing. The Superlight seat looks good as does the F1 single seat but I like the original fairings and have no desire to change for the sake of it but a single seat would be neater than the bolt on cover which on mine doesn't sit perfectly anyway.
So any help with the current issues and advice on the wishlist would be appreciated.

I did my rear seat by adding foam to look like a single seat and having it recovered. Cost $150 for a new cover by a local girl who does motorcycle seats. That way, you can also adjust the size of the seating area to fit you and your riding position. Some single seats are a bit too cramped. Sort out your handlebars first because that may affect your riding position.

If you still have the 40mm forks, I have a set of Thomaselli adjustable clipons that you might be interested in. Of course, the challenge with adjustable clipons, is getting both sides to match.

Cheers, Phil

If you put the foam that you wish to shape into the freezer for a bit it will harden up making it much easier to shape
Hamish

[fester]

Here are a few pics of how my bike looks now or at least how it did before I started pulling things apart yesterday:





As far as I can tell the engine is standard and has about 48,000klms on it. It would seem though that the bike has seen some track days at least as there is some evidence of lock wiring, the oil filter is locked on with a hose clamp, Oh and it came with a nice shiny Ohlins rear shock.

[fester]

Battery tray is gone to make room for the FCR's.


Mind you now that I found this I'm not sure I had to remove the battery tray completely. I could probably have gotten away with removing the straps that linked the tray to the crossbrace. Assuming I don't move the crossbrace. Jury still out.
This is a pic of my new battery against my old battery. Same cranking amps but .6kg compared to the old 6kg one.

I started looking at some of the exotic ones the guys on Ducati.MS were talking about but most were pretty expensive to get here in Aus or some of the cheaper ones were lower CCA's to get a small case size (Motobatt). Then I came across these SSB Lithium ones. A little bit dearer than say the correct replacement Motobatt but cheaper than some of the Yuasa's.

Now where to put it. Originally I was going to make a new removeable battery tray and mount it somehow where the later models do, in front of the rear cylinder. Now I am tossing up whether to reinstate some form of smaller battery tray up front as I can still move the crossmember forward and the battery would fit below it. Should be able to still get it in and out through the bottom.
My other easier choice which I am leaning towards is simply strapping it down suitably in the tail section as I don't really use the storage space anyway and am planning a superlight style fixed tail unit anyway. New thicker cabling as necessary was on my to do list as well so kills 2 birds so to speak and the undertail should be the coolest part of the bike.

[fester]

This is where I am at with the cross brace.

The crossbrace sits about 1/4 over the inlet diameter and about 50mm above.

My intention all along was to remove it and move it forward to the bend in the side rails where the upright rail joins the top and bottom. I was hoping to get away without it for now as it will be a pain getting to the underside of the brace to weld underneath with the bike still mostly together. I've agonised over this off and on all day where I could probably have done it by now. Thinking I might be able to cram a couple of the angled Unifilters in there for the time being, just not sure if they will be too tight against the brace. Ultimately I would like to run big K & N filters or the smaller oval ones that came with the carbs but welding the brace back in would be so much easier and neater (underneath) if I could do it with the frame bare and on the bench. If things go to plan I am hoping to strip the bike down in next couple of months to get the frame powder coated and do the fairing work etc but in the meantime I'd still like to be able to ride it so can't strip it now.

Thoughts? Unifilters as a short term option are cheap. I could also fit some short velocity stacks and then put the mesh strainers on them, the ride to work is not too dusty, but that becomes a dearer option as the carbs did not come with the stacks and for a plastic stack they are stupid prices.

[fester]

Oh got these little babies turn up in the mail today so be interesting to try them out and see how they go:


They are only the cheap no name ebay ones from Hong Kong. Supposed to be 7 series ally. They certainly look to be of sound quality and actually look pretty good. They are a 25 or 30mm rise so match the layout of the original pretty well and with just mocking up beside the angle looks very similar. I only wanted something fairly simple and not over the top styling wise so they fit the bill there. Only hassle is they only come in a 41mm fitment so I am going to have to shim them up. I asked about 40mm but no go. Would have been nice if they did a 39mm then I would just machine them out but the next size down is 38mm and without seeing them I'm not sure they are thick enough to machine that far.

[ducinthebay]

The crossbrace sits about 1/4 over the inlet diameter and about 50mm above.
Thinking I might be able to cram a couple of the angled Unifilters in there for the time being, just not sure if they will be too tight against the brace. Ultimately I would like to run big K & N filters or the smaller oval ones that came with the carbs

Thoughts? Unifilters as a short term option are cheap. I could also fit some short velocity stacks and then put the mesh strainers on them, the ride to work is not too dusty, but that becomes a dearer option as the carbs did not come with the stacks and for a plastic stack they are stupid prices.

I'm always a big fan of a bit of intake length above the carb, and big air filters. Smooths out the flow and helps off of idle. There are a wide range of rubber and silicone elbows that will allow you to put some big air cleaners in that big empty space beneath the tank, or where your battery once lived.
http://www.siliconeintakes.com/index.ph ... a34c1089dc
If you get some plastic plumbing drain pipe elbows, you can heat it up and reshape it to fit around your frame brace. Of course, you can also fab up something from fiberglass, or aluminum.

As for your battery, you can put it where the Sport Classic has it, under the seat, above the shock. If you stash it just below the existing electrics plate, all the wiring gets much shorter.

Cheers, Phil