Largley OK ... road rash on the Pegs but not too deep

Stripped ready for Powder Blasting

Out with the dremel to take out the rash & reshape & off to the blaster & PC

On assembly I couldnt bring myself to load up the Peg return spring straight on to my coating so found some plastic that was UV stabilized (garden watering component) cut to size & fitted (a little bit fidly for my sausage fingers but it worked)

I have only worked out how to get 3x pics on at a time thus this post

This shows my super Bung PC saver

Returned from Coating

Bung in

I forgot to take a photo showing the whole units assembled but also got new fittings for the gear shifting rod ... greased & installed

actually pretty pleased with this job

PM Sent

New Front Wheel Speedo Seal (a pain as I lost the old one)

Thanks to Ducinthebay (Phil) 40 x 52 x 5 Single Lip (which matches measure up after getting the numbers)

Funny thing is cannot find the F@kn Speedo Tang now

ordered some replacement engine bolts & speedo/tang

The original bolts were a bit ratty so took down to local shop for tart up ..... but he completely mis heard my request & nicol plated the bl00dy things

So ordered bolts (& whilst at it Speedo & Tang) off Ed Millich at Duc Parts

Got to say really quick, not over the top & sorts stuff out ... credit where credit is due

Picking up fairings & tank tomorrow ... I did a little glassing but left the rest of the tidy up to the shop ... will be interested in what the tank seal looks like as I was going to do (easy enough) but she needed a little beating before sealing so left with him

Photo's will follow

Originals were zinc plated, so nickle isn't far off, just a bit shinier. They will patina a bit with age and look fine. If they are too shiny, you can set them outside and mist them with some salt water and/or vinegar. Old GP bikes had copper plated bolts, which resisted galling of the steel to the aluminum, and just looked cool.

Cheers, Phil

Tank Sealed, Rear Tank Mount welded with gusset (was cracked & weak), dings beaten, fairing cracks relieved, glass, etc, etc

Came up good ... used European Ford Radiant Red which was the only colour on the web I could find for the 89/90 ... albeit I gaurantee someone will correct that point for me now)

Dont care is bloody nice colour

Install new pump & filter when I get my hands on the right fuel hose (will post that)

So below from gravel rash & 25 years of use ...doesn't really show the damages but you get the idea

Anyone point me to supplier for front Tank silent blocks/Mount as the ones I bought (for a 900 supersport) are too thick?

For fuel hose, make sure you get stuff rated for fuel injection, and that it can withstand immersion. I installed some stuff that wasn't, and it swelled up, and started leaking in a short time. Don't go with regular fuel line. The autoparts store can help you out. Also, use the fuel injection clamps that have the two flanges and the small screw and nut. The old style hose clamps just beat the life out of the hose and lead to leaks.

Good progress none the same.

I peiced together the rubber bushings for my tank. The blocks on the side are my reference (and I doubled them up, 2 per side) then I bent the flanges on the tank to accommodate the rubber bushings I could source at my local hardware store. Sheetmetal is always meant to be bent.

Cheers, Phil

Thanks Duke in the Bay .... acquired the correct fuel hose & installed with a new fuel sensor, pump & the correct clamps

Bet you thought I had given up ...

Engine is finally back missing a couple of parts that can be added once in Frame (albeit one is a swinger bearing which makes a little tougher but do able)

Overall with a couple of changes made to the machine I am no longer hung up on making as original .... so this means a few minor upgrades

The Carb will go with a K & N filter so in she goes .... starting to see nuances for the machine I have up to this point only read about .... here the carb goes on but doesnt sit exactly square to the frame (as it was from new)

The Weber looks good!

On with the FootPeg assembly I built a year plus ago

Clutch line in with new bolt & bleed

Now on the bit I am blOOdy dreading ... the wiring

Has been 2.5 years since this loom was on the bike & as per a lot of the posts I read before I took it apart (so I should have known better) .... I didn't take enough photo's

Electrics (the plan at least)

Upgrade starter cables which go on to new starter motor (with H/Comps in I didnt was to stuff around with an old starter) - Motelectric built this for me so will be cool to see if it fits (he was very accomodating actually)
Dyna Coils
Clean, Grease, check/tune each connector & Dielectric grease
New OEM Reg

BAD

can you spell shindengin


lookie here http://roadstercycle.com/

All looking good.

Get a tube of silicone grease for those connectors. You may find it at the auto parts store labeled Tune Up Grease, or your Harley Dealer called Dielectric Grease. Good on sparkplug caps too. It keeps connections free of moisture, and corrosion. Of course clean off all connectors first, and push them on and off several times to make sure you are cutting through the 25 years of oxidation. I kept my electrics basically stock, and it all works just fine. The battery holds a charge for a very long time on my Sport. The only modifications I did was put on a much fatter ground wire for the battery, and also grounded the housing of the regulator.

Good time to change most of the bulbs to LEDs. Brighter, and less power needed. There is post in the Paso section on changing the bulbs in the dash.

Cheers, Phil

changing to LED bulbs with a stock regulator is not recommended. It will increase the shunt to ground value and heat up your regulator and stator. Do the Math

Back to standard Bulbs ... didnt know that (I dont have lace up shoes as challenging for me) ... in case I havent stated before as shultz said "I know nussing"

Thanks for the advice

p.s. Math was my worst subject