Brake Rotor Cleanup

whitepaso · Post by **whitepaso** » Fri Feb 24, 2006 2:10 am

Any suggestions on how best to clean the cast iron, non-floating type brake rotors of an 88 model? Mine have a thin coat of rust from sitting unused for almost two years and I would like to make them look like new again - ok, I'll settle for looking used but clean!

Finnpaso · Post by **Finnpaso** » Fri Feb 24, 2006 1:42 pm

If You mean that friction part of disck, then it needs only driving and braking. Mine are rusty allways after washing my beauty, but after some braking, rust have gone. But if they are around very rusty, then new coating is too difficult and too pricey, so then better look new ones. I know, again quite hard part to find to Paso 750 and 906...

fasterdammit · Post by **fasterdammit** » Fri Feb 24, 2006 3:53 pm

Best way to scrub that rust off is with the brake pads. :laugh:

Yeah, I think that fine patina of rust that occurs is just our Paso's way of saying "ride me!" It occurs to mine after a bath as well, but comes right off after a liberal application of STOP or two.

whitepaso · Post by **whitepaso** » Sat Feb 25, 2006 1:44 am

Yes, actually using them would best, but since I have the bike dis-assembled anyway....... It always struck me odd that my Paso's rotors always rusted after use (and wash), yet my '75 BMW's rotors haven't - ever. They are cast-iron too. Of course the beemer doesn't stop nearly as good as the duck.

Rodney · Post by **Rodney** » Sat Feb 25, 2006 8:15 am

you get all different grades of cast iron just depends on the proportion of metals they put in to make it.

fasterdammit · Post by **fasterdammit** » Mon Feb 27, 2006 4:45 pm

whitepaso wrote:Yes, actually using them would best, but since I have the bike dis-assembled anyway....... It always struck me odd that my Paso's rotors always rusted after use (and wash), yet my '75 BMW's rotors haven't - ever. They are cast-iron too. Of course the beemer doesn't stop nearly as good as the duck.

Ah, well, if they're not actually on the bike, that would make it difficult. Would there be any real harm in using a fine steel wool to clean them off? If they're not going to be used for a while, what about using a light-grade machine oil as a steel wool lubricant (necessary?) which could double as a protectant, too, while they're off the bike? Normally, I wouldn't recommend lubing one's brake components, but you can usually clean that off easily (I'm not talking using 20W50 oil here) but it might be enough to keep them corrosion-free in the downtime?

Post by **jcslocum** » Tue Feb 28, 2006 12:32 am

Not steel wool. You just end up with more rust. Use a "scotch brite" pad to scrub the rust off. WD-40 for protection. You MUST wash them with brake clean spray before using them. The the rust will begin but hopefuuly by then it will be back running and you can keep them clean by riding!

whitepaso · Post by **whitepaso** » Fri Mar 03, 2006 11:17 am

I think I will try the scotch-brite method. I'll report back on how well (or not well) it works. Thanks all.

delagem · Post by **delagem** » Wed Mar 15, 2006 12:37 pm

I've been using scotchbrite for years. NAPA sells a little "cookie" that you can chuck up in a die grinder, the whole job takes <5 min's. I read an article once about Miguel Duhamel's race mechanics doing this after every race somewhere.

Post by **jcslocum** » Wed Mar 15, 2006 1:04 pm

They are using it on Miguel or his ever present girl friend?.....

delagem · Post by **delagem** » Thu Mar 16, 2006 5:47 pm

Yeah, she gets more TV coverage than he does after a race! Always in the background, holding his helmet up high to get the sponsors some free airtime...