Restarting the original

[Tamburinifan]

CV slower response than flats but reliable and MUCH cheaper.
Ad carbs ok but I also recommend 750 ones for better chance of correct jets.

[enginerd]

I have a feeling that I'll end up with carbs from a Monster, just for ease of use and parts are cheap and readily available. Bonus part is any problem solving can be easily found online. I have noticed a fair amount of M900 carbs out there available. Might get one and just clean it up and re-jet it. I have come across very positive and glowing reviews in the past year about knock off FCR's (Kipa). Too bad I can't find them in a dual pack all mounted - just singular. Kinda tempting... Also seems to be a few used FCR41's out there from a 900. Doubt I could easily re-jet them for a 750 though, right?

[enginerd]

Life happens so I had some time away from this. Just threw a new chain and 40t rear sprocket on. Haven't set the tension yet but at least got it on.

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Next step is to change out the brake/ clutch fluid. First I need to change out the bleed valves as they're a bit rounded off where I need to use them. When I bleed the front brakes, I'm just got to remove the calipers and have them clamp on something the same thickness as the rotor. The location of the bleed valve in the front just sucks.

[enginerd]

So..... it's alive!! After nearly 20 years, it runs.

Video to come later this week but the bike runs. It's sputtering along and smokes. I had to squirt fluids in the cylinders to aid in lubrication when I first turned the engine over by hand. The choke cable isn't attached (bracket broke) and the second carb that I got didn't have the choke cable mount on it. Either way, I'll play with it more this week when the temps rise and it's a bit sunnier outside for a decent video.

[Tamburinifan]

[oilyrover]

Nice work! It feels great when they wake up again.

[enginerd]

Got the bike back out and some more videos of it idling and quick throttle blips.

Sits right around 1k idling at the moment. Manually used the choke to speed it up and idle/ warm up faster. Keep in mind the carb was rebuilt by Mike's dad and all setting were prior to mounting it. All I did was literally volt it up and fill with gas. Has some popping after a while. Was suggested to run some sea foam through the fuel to help clean any carbon off the valves. I may do that, I dunno.

Once I've let the engine cycle through some starts for a while, I'll get around to checking the clearances on the valves. I tried when I had the covers off but they weren't smooth from sitting so long.

I might pull the exhaust system off to clean the oil off the pipes. When I removed the vertical exhaust valve cover, oil ran out and soaked the clamp. So right now I've got steam and oil smoke coming from there that might take who knows how long to burn off.

I need to figure a way to link a lengthy video here. All mine are 20+ second and obliterate the 5mb limit for files, hah.

[higgy]

as far as longer videos go, a lot of Pasoist host them elsewhere with fewer restrictions and just provide links to the videos

[enginerd]

OK, almost forgot about my old photobucket album. Hope this works.

https://photobucket.com/share/5868f29c- ... 15a47ed22d

This was just a quick video of it idling, nothing special. Maybe I'll try another later if I can get something to hold my phone.

[Mc tool]

Yeah thats only running on one pot untill you touch the throttle . Have you sync'd the carb ( idle bypass screws ) and that is something Mikes Dad wouldnt have been able to do without the engine running.

[enginerd]

Right now, I'm just happy it's running.

Haven't synced the carbs and don't know when I'll get around to it as I'll need the proper tool for it. Not sure how deep I'll look/ spend on one of those. This carb will be replaced with possibly an FCR 39 at some point as I've got someone who wants these DCNF's from me.

For syncing tools, any easy to get recommendations?

Mike will be up here in a week so as long as it's running when he gets here, that's the big win. I hope to have it street legal in a few months. First fix for that to happen is the brakes: either just a new rear or new front and rear since they're cheap from Bevel Heaven.

[Mc tool]

The 39's would be better than the 41's.
There are heaps of carb balancing tools and as many pro's , con's and opinions . I like the mercury Colom ones but they are hard to find now .

[enginerd]

I was almost tempted by some 41's as it was a good offer, but I only found one instance of someone using the 41's and tuning them on a 750 in the monster forums. If there's that few, there's got to be a reason why. So I'll scout out for now some 39's if I can. Yes I could do the monster Mikuni carbs but... I just want to try something different maybe. I was thinking the split carbs but I hate dealing with splitting cables and getting the lengths right. I had enough of that when I was setting up the carb on my RS50 to keep the factory oil injection.

For a sync tool, Mike said he has one for this carb that he'll bring up here so we can tune it some. I did see online a digital one that intrigued me but that's hoping it all works and digital will eventually fail a bit easier I feel.

[Mc tool]

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007 ... 00228903_1

this is the one I would go for , heard good things . If you have a surf around you will find this tool in various brands and prices and colour combo's ( from 125 to 220 bucks ) , one or two are high end brands .Just watch the freight costs as they vary massively
The set of 4 dial type gauges are ok as long as they are all calibrated the same, which they arnt . You need to hook up all 4 gauges to a common vacuum source ( brake bleeder ) and eyeball any discrepancies before trying to make sense of them . Also the gauges need a dampner to work properly and some of the cheap one dont have that , but you could probly make your own ,
The weber has a throttle butterfly bypass on each barrel. All it is is a needle valve ( like a mixture screw ) and basically you fit the vacuum measure to each pot and if one cyl has less vacuum than the other you would close the bypass on that cylinder and open the other bypass screw enough to even up the flow . The bypass screw allows a small amount of air to bypass the butterflies. One bypass screw should be fully closed while the other is open enough to flow enough air to even the flow in both cylinders . Its a bit of a juggle coz when you adjust one cyl the other will change too .

[enginerd]

Went out to start the bike and it had a hell of a time starting. Also noticed this new dash icon showed up that I haven't seen before. Scouring through the manual is leading me to nowhere and finding a lot of old broken picture links. Gonna be a bit to see what's up now

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