Clock disconnect

[blakduc1]

Does anyone know how to disconnect the little battery-draining clock on the 907? What wire should be disconnected behind the instrument panel?
Thanks
dp

[qldman36]

Here's the quick and dirty way. There are no "wires" behind instrument panel, rather there is a printed circuit board. I tried pulling stud to + lead but it broke off and still made contact. Solution was xato knife and cut gap into the "+" lead. Where battery would run down completly in two weeks, now stays usable for 2 months plus.

[du907]

I took the clock out, it is held in by studs that make contact with the printed circut board. I then used some small rubber gromlets that you can buy at any hardware store and placed then in the holes. Push the studs through and bolt back up like normal. The studs cannot make contact with the circut board and that is it.
du907

[blakduc1]

Ah, but there is a wiring plug on the back of the instrument panel/ circuit board. Wouldn't it be easier just to clip or disconnect the correct wire that feeds the clock????? Does anyone know which wire/ what color it is???

Thanks

[qldman36]

Obviously you haven't taken off the front fairing and checked closely the clock setup. There are NO wires going to the clock! Power is derived from the circuit board ONLY. Use either of the above solutions, or conjure up something else that we haven't discovered.

[Stingray230SX]

you should be able to find continuity from the circuit board trace or + stud to one of those wires on the plug if indeed the power is fed that way by using a voltmeter.

or just get one of those little solar trickle chargers from harbor freight and make up a disconnect and mount that panel in the window of your garageand keep it maintained that way.

good luck

doug hunt

[blakduc1]

Obviously you haven't taken off the front fairing and checked closely the clock setup. There are NO wires going to the clock! Power is derived from the circuit board ONLY. Use either of the above solutions, or conjure up something else that we haven't discovered.

Obviously you haven't looked at the back of the instrument panel. I just looked at it again and there are three (3) separate wiring harness plugs connected to the instrument panel. One has five wires, and the other two have four wires each --- thirteen different wires. One plug is sort of in the middle area and there is one on each side of the panel. The instrument cluster has turn signal indicators and other lights, etc. These have to get power somehow. How do you think the circuit board gets power??? Looks to me like it is by the wiring plugs. And I bet one of these wires has to do with the clock!

Are you saying that the circuit board has one connection going in and power to the clock and lights is then derived off the powered-up circuit board? If so, then why so many wires attached?


As for "conjuring up something you haven't discovered" I am not trying to "conjure up" anything. I am simply adressing the list concerning a problem. Sometimes there is more than one solution to a problem Keep an open mind and perhaps you will discover something new......
dp

[blakduc1]

QUOTE: "or just get one of those little solar trickle chargers from harbor freight and make up a disconnect and mount that panel in the window of your garageand keep it maintained that way."


Thanks , Doug.
Neat suggestion, but I am not always in a garage with a window that could be rigged for that. I can just use a battery tender for that matter, when in a garage. But the clock is a pesky power drain over a long period, and on trips, etc, the Duc needs as much good battery power available as possible. I thought disconnecting the clock might help, and have actually had a dealer suggest that, though they could not remember which wire it was........

[qldman36]

First..... I was not trying to be a smart ass. Just spent about 15 minutes checking wiring diagram, and may have your solution. Shows 6 wire plug with pin #1, orange goes directly from clock to 25 amp fuse bypassing switch. Try it.
Yes diabling clock will do wonders for your battery state.
Reason i didn't take this route is that i asked the electrical guru on this site if he could come up with solution, said would try but never got back to me, so took as i said "quick and dirty route"
BTW, Did your two black bikes originate in south fl? Reason i ask is husband and wife had a pair in Miami area that i used to maintain.

[du907]

The wires plug into the plastic printed circut board. The dash light bulbs and other instruments all hook to the printed circut board. The suggestion about isolating the post on the clock as it attaches to the circut board works. That is how mine is right now. No wires to cut, can be easily converted back to original condition without leaving a trace. Sounds like a good and easy solution.
du907

[blakduc1]

Yes, both of these solutions should work. That orange wire is worth a try and I will look at that --- thanks. No my bikes did not come from S. Fla. That is interesting. One did come from Fla but not that area. The other came from Boston area.


I was trying to find the correct wire because I hoped I might be able to unplug it from the harness without cutting it. I had previously taken my clear plastic guage cover off on one of the bikes and then used some clear silicon sealant to help re-attach and seal one side of it because the clip was broken or cracked --- so I was trying to avoid doing that over if possible.

Thanks to all for the help.
dp

[mjfrank907]

I don't know if your 907 is the same as mine, but on my 92, I just rigged up a switch on the small relay power wire that goes to the battery.

On my battery positive post, I had two wires connected, one heavy gauge wire that goes to the starter, and one lighter gauge wire that powers the relays, clock, electronics, etc. I took a small project box, a 30 amp toggle switch, and some similar gauge wire, and hooked this wire to the switch. When I'm done riding, I can reach under the seat and flip this toggle off, which kills the power to everything, including the clock. Kind of a poor-mans security system too, because the switch is hidden under the seat, and can't be reached unless you remove the seat. I mounted the box where california bikes have their purge tank located. At least I think that's what it is, left side next to battery, there are two tabs welded to the frame with nothing attached.

It's not horribly elegant, but it works. I can send pics if you want.

--Mike

[osapitacud]

I disconnected my clock two or three years back to save the battery. I don't recall any difficulty, from memory it was a wire that I disconnected and shielded.

More recently I thought it would be better to simply put a switch in the circuit (mounted on the dash) so the clock can be enabled and adjusted when riding and disabled when parked up. I haven't yet proceeded with this idea but I may do it this winter when I do a service and get the paint job done that I have been thinking about.

Anyone else tried this?

Regards,
Graeme Harvey
New Zealand.

[Finnpaso]

I would do this way: I tried to find thin, but very good insulator specer(plastic) BETWEEN clock + pole and circuit board and then add small "abiko" connectors with ring holes to both sides, to clock + pole side and to circuit board side and make wirings from those connectors to switch, what i shall put to enough easy accessible place to get clock ON/OFF.... I dont know, how much there is space between clock surface and that plastic black instrument cover, if clock comes little off from circuit board....

[Shatten]

Since I can't see where anyone actually posted having cut the orange wire and confirmed if it was the clock I will.

I cut the orange wire on the six-wire plug and shieldewd both ends. The clock stopped. No side effects occured.