Swingarm Swap

BikerBard · Post by **BikerBard** » Mon Oct 30, 2006 3:29 am

I'm in the middle of the swingarm swap and I'm cussing the #*$%^&!!! designer of this bike! The service manual says to simply remove the bolt at the bottom of the shock...the bolt holding the connecting rods on the swingarm....and it should simply fall out. HA! they fail to mention that the freaking exhaust pipe runs thru the middle of the thing! I'm giving up for tonight and will finish sometime tomorrow (I hope). Here's hoping none of y'all have to do this anytime soon :thumbdown:

DG

Post by **jcslocum** » Mon Oct 30, 2006 11:47 am

These bike have character and ....um...build character.

Good luck and don't get too frustrated.

Desmo_Demon · Post by **Desmo_Demon** » Mon Oct 30, 2006 2:46 pm

Ooohhh...great!

Just another thing for me to look forward to with my Paso project, as I am thinking of taking the swingarm off to inspect the bearings, seals, pivot points, and torques....I just don't trust what the previous owner did to the bike. :ugh:

Post by **Skins** » Mon Oct 30, 2006 7:24 pm

It's not hard to remove the exhaust system piece by piece. That should make the job a lot easier.

Finnpaso · Post by **Finnpaso** » Mon Oct 30, 2006 7:27 pm

I would also go that way... Simple job to take all exhausts pipes away!

BikerBard · Post by **BikerBard** » Mon Oct 30, 2006 8:46 pm

got the exhaust off....but the swingarm ain't budging where it's attatched to the frame. I took the swingarm spindle out but nothing I try is working. Anybody been thru this before?

DG

Post by **Skins** » Mon Oct 30, 2006 9:34 pm

I've had the swingarm spindle out when I've removed the engine, but I've never taken the swingarm off. However, the manual says (under Removal and Overhaul of Swingarm) to put a hydraulic hoist under the engine (I had ropes from a beam coming down to take the weight of the engine), then remove the spindle, then (quote) 'extract complete swing arm with bushings and spacers'.

So, it would seem that with the weight of the engine supported, there should be nothing to stop you pulling off the swing arm once the strap, shock, and spindle have been removed.

Post by **jcslocum** » Mon Oct 30, 2006 9:58 pm

When I had my engine out the swingarm was just flopping there loose. Maybe with the engine still it's pinched inplace? Might need some persuading with the mechanics best friend, the 5 lb. hammer?

BikerBard · Post by **BikerBard** » Tue Oct 31, 2006 12:21 am

jcslocum wrote:Might need some persuading with the mechanics best friend, the 5 lb. hammer?

hehehe, it finally came out. Just needed to be man-handled. (or should I say...girl handled

)

The new one is in and I'm fixing to tighten everything back up and get the wheel on. I'll post some pics of the damage when I get a chance.

Thanks to y'all for the advice

DG

Post by **Skins** » Tue Oct 31, 2006 12:35 am

Good stuff!

Now make sure of proper chain tension. Loose is better than tight, for smooth running, and to avoid trouble with the bearing at the front end of the chain. I run mine at about 1" of slack.

ducapaso · Post by **ducapaso** » Tue Oct 31, 2006 6:21 am

someone told me to seat on the bike and leave about 1/2" slack, in order to have thechain fitted to your size

Post by **Skins** » Tue Oct 31, 2006 7:46 am

I reckon that's a bit tight, Nicola. I prefer almost 1 inch slack with the suspension half compressed. You need a good bit of slack to absorb engine and transmission vibrations, if you want a really smooth ride.

A good way to compress the suspension is with a loop of heavy rope over the seat and through the wheel, with a towel for padding. I use the rope that controls the main sail on my sail boat, but lots of turns of a lighter rope would do also.

Post by **jcslocum** » Tue Oct 31, 2006 11:45 am

I do it by sitting on the bike will all of my gear on. The I adjust for 1" (25mm) slack. Loose is always better than tight. I know from experience. 1/2" (12mm) is too tight!

ducapaso · Post by **ducapaso** » Wed Nov 01, 2006 5:52 am

next time I'll try a looser slacking!

Post by **Skins** » Wed Nov 01, 2006 6:28 am

Good on ya, Nicola! I reckon you can feel the difference in vibration of different tensions when you ride. At low speeds, up to 75 km/h (45 mph) a slacker chain (up to 30mm/ 1.25in) can give you a really smooth ride, but at higher speeds it needs to be tighter, no more than 25mm/1in.

I reckon the chain is the soul of the machine.