ducatipaso.org

Hey G - Is that a heated Northern Ultrasonic parts cleaner I see in the top pic?

nah, that`s just some reasonable priced thing made somewhere in Asia. It says DailyMag on it. Works ok though. (It is heated, non heated didn`t make sense for me)

Hello.just discovered yours post
incredible work
lots of ideas for me
thanks

if anyone is interested, the crankcase breather of later Ducatis can be fitted on a Pantah motor.
This only requires shortening the hose by 1,5-1,8mm.
I have to point out though that I don`t have the original cylinders on my engine so I`m not 100% sure if the original cylinders with their wider cooling fins have the same large cutout for the later type crankcase breather. (but as the cylinder heads do, the cylinders should as well)

The original part of the P750, Sport, 906 is just a hose connector.
The later breathers have a reed valve in them, aftermarket parts do as well, but not all.

It`s the same used on:
Ducati Monster 600-1000 inkl S2R, S4
Ducati 748/916/996/998/999
Ducati 750/900/1000 SS/ie
Ducati 851/888
Ducati 907 I.E. `92
Ducati Hypermotard 1100
Ducati MH 900 evo
Ducati Multistrada 1000 DS
Ducati ST2/ ST3/ ST4 S
...











G.

This is very interesting, i think the 907 tank is shaped even different.... i have to check that...

The 907 tank is different. It also has a plate that the front mount is mounted on so they do not crack like the tanks on the 750 and 906

higgy wrote:

The 907 tank is different. It also has a plate that the front mount is mounted on so they do not crack like the tanks on the 750 and 906

that front tank mount is supporting a bit of weight and only has a few spot welds to hold it together, I've added some metal bonding glue around the base to strenghen it a bit.

this post has now had 9596 hits...must be some sort of record...good on ya G!
...and I actually bought that sump breather, its good for both 907/851

This and last summers project (my project but not my car )


So the Paso is still sitting there. (only on that picture I see 4 other projects that need attention and two days ago another family car added to the list by starting to leak coolant ). As they say: the light at the end of the tunnel - is a train ...


The details, there`s nothing else to be done except of a new paintjob:
The rear large brake fluid container was swapped with a newer small one with a bracket from a GSX-R master pump. The only reason being to be able to use the same aftermarket cap I used for the brake and clutch pump At least that`s consistent I don`t think the rear pump has such a stroke it really needs the big fluid container.


The carb manifolds for the TDMRs anodized black. Cast parts end up looking like charcoal.


Figuring some of you guys are using aftermarket fork braces which imho look odd I modified a second original brace to fit on the existing one. Thought about having them welded together but I guess with 8 bolts that isn´t necessary. If it does stabilize the fork a little bit more, good. If not it only cost 15min of work.


The rear caliper powdercoated to match the front ones





Something I thought about since building the airbox is a carbon chainguard. Not sure if a carbon rear fender would look good unless the complete anthracite/lower part of the fairings would be carbon covered. That´s all doable but out of the question as too much work. I don`t have the equipment for vacuum injection so it´s all done manually.










Of course I missed that the position of the original chain guard wasn`t the same with the 907ie swingarm and 16" wheel. To center it, it needed to be mounted on the inner side of the swingarm bracket which required making a small carbon part to cover the bracket.
The chain adapter plates were swapped with some other aftermarket ones.


Currently there`re some parts for an Elefant waiting to be finished. As that work requires temperatures of 18°C-25°C and fall is here I`m a bit in doubt this`ll be finished this year.


tbc

G.

Interesting as always.

I always thought the chain guard looks dull.
Keep the mould! If you consider doing more of them,
I`ll gladly buy one.

What Elefant parts are you making?

Gert, if I make another (and I actually didn´t plan to make more than one) it`ll probably be only next year.
Tony, the parts on the last pic. At least I`m trying. The license plate holder is a bit complex so `ll have to see if I manage to copy it.

G.

No worries, G, I`m in no hurry bout this.

After the taillight mod and the instrument panel LED conversion there was one more thing to do.
Long time ago I had damaged a brandnew instrument panel frame when trying to drill a hole into it


I was thinking a while about ways to save that part and the most reasonable seems to take advantage of this situation and implement a miniature voltmeter which at least is useful.
Those things are cheap being delivered directly from China with free shipping. To have the choice I ordered them in red, yellow, green and blue illumination. The first order didn`t arrive after 8 weeks so I bought some others. To my surprise when the second set arrived a few days later the first ordered ones arrived as well. Although the dimensions according to the auctions were the same the second set is even smaller than the first so finding a place for them is no problem. One could also fit them on the bottom left or right of the instrument panel or next to the clock.


The cut out needs to become as perfect as possible to minimize any visbile gap. Everything white incl the voltmeters were later painted flat black. Although they are almost press fit black sealant will secure them and prevent any backlight to shine through around the voltmeter.


The mounting wings don`t stand over but will be removed anyway. The depth of the voltmeter is not a problem. Both types I got can be mounted flush w/o touching the faceplate of the gauges. (the protection foil is still on)






first test


Trying all voltmeters





The smaller ones



Red is a no-go. It`s like a warning light. Yellow is my current favourite (in combination with the white LEDs used for the instrument panel illumination). Green or blue are not bad but have a strong glow.
Guess I`ll have to try outside the house to get a better picture ...

I got the very small ones from this seller (have rarely seen an asian seller with so little negative feedback)
http://www.ebay.com/sch/m.html?_odkw=&i ... &_from=R40

The front plate is 23x10mm while others like the ones I ordered first are 23x14mm (display width x height).
Some voltmeters exist as two or three wire versions. The three wire versions have a wider measuring range i.e. 0-100V while the two wire versions are i.e. 3-30V so for a bike it`s irrelevant which ones to chose.

There exist also waterproof voltmeters which could be fitted in the metal bracket below the instrument panel or in the fairing and other for a cigarette lighter (remove the plug and connect it wherever you want).



G.

edit: I ended up going with the red voltmeter as that`s the only one which was readable in direct sunlight.

What a fantastic bike, and well done on all the work you've done on it. I've thoroughly enjoyed reading through this thread.

it looks like I`m posting once a year in my own topic
As Mark dug it up again and I have a free saturday afternoon I`ll continue.

Last year I redid the cf chainguard. It had a slightly wavy surface and had murky areas which is typical for the use of too much resin. (I`m still on a learning curve and doing it all by hand w/o vacuum equipment)
The clear and gel coat was sanded off and the last layer of cf as well until everything was perfectly even. Applying one perfect layer is difficult but this time I used peel ply which I had discoverey for myself only some time ago.
For the ones who don`t know what it is it`s a nylon fabric which is applied just like a normal layer of glassfibre or cf. Excessive resin will pass though it and dry on the surface. The peel ply itself will not bond to it`s underground. When the resin has hardened it can be pulled off (with some effort) and all the excessive resin will come off, too. The results are thinner and stronger parts and after it's pulled off it`ll leave a slightly rough surface. This saves some time if you`re working with resin that dries with a non sticky surface like I do as it doesn`t have to be sanded before applying another layer or gel coat.
Another advantage of it when working with cf is that you can pass over it with a roller or squeeze out resin by passing over it with a finger without moving the cf mat below and ruining its pattern or pulling out fibers. It`s important though that it touches the surface everywhere perfectly or it can trap air (like that small black spot on the edge)


This time it turned out great

´

With the resin and cf left I wrapped a few shifting rods which was fairly easy


and tried myself on sprocket covers









They turned out ok for the first ever attempt. That red thing is the glassfibre copy of an original (907ie onwards) sprocket cover. That wooden frame was just to check if the parts line up as I don`t have an engine where these covers would fit.

After reading some horror stories in other Duc forums of swingarm end caps coming loose and getting caught by the sprocket I decided to safety wire it. Guess it would have been more practical not to safety wire the chain tensioner bolt tho. Yeah, well ...


What else?! A very friendly swiss forum member found me the fork reflectors I was looking for for a long while (thx again). They are from a Monster/SS and the same as the ones on (many) US Pasos.




It wasn`t really necessary but for the loose battery two cut outs were made on the bottom of the battery compartment so a velcro strap could be installed. (The rear cut is not on the edge as on the bottom side there`s the plastic extension the rubber mud flap mounts to)





While already cutting I found a place for the rubber net which is from a Cagiva Elefant tool compartment (I didn`t buy it. It was a leftover and I didn`t want to throw it away )



The floating brake discs were swapped back to rigid ones (which I had laying around for 10-12 years for sure) for the next inspection.



They do make a good impression.

Meanwhile found one of my spare mirrors had a broken mirror pod. If somebody has one please let me know. This one is beyond repair.

Francesco commented on the clutch cover years ago so it finally got powdercoated. (happy now? ) The polished vented clutch cover didn`t match the rest of the bike so it got powdercoated black as well.



The foam plug used to protect the cylinder melted to it in the oven Scratching out all the crust with a wooden stick was the evening job while watching the telly. The edges of the powder coat could be removed with an old scalpell. After it was clean again the cylinder was sanded with 2000 grit wet sanding paper and then polished with Autosol and the drill.



It`s interesting btw that even after a few years of being unused there would be some dirt in the cylinder and some surface rust on the clutch piston.

As a gift I got a little Sigma computer. There isn`t really a place to mount it so a hole was drilled into the handlebar to fixate it with its O ring.





coffee break ...