ducatipaso.org

Posted: **Sat Apr 18, 2009 5:10 pm**

JWilliam wrote:Jesus

I would say: Jesus "CHRIST SUPERSTAR" in this case....

Posted: **Sat Apr 18, 2009 9:24 pm**

Hi Steve,

about the shock. if you heat up the aluminum parts with an electric paint stripper torch, the corrosion layer breaks as aluminium expands more than steel. use a plastic or copper (prefered) hammet to tap the bolt out. this avoids damaging something

Ducbertus

Posted: **Mon Apr 20, 2009 6:49 am**

Hi Stiv,

the last photo appears to be of the lower radiator mounting bracket. I to had a broken one of these when i bought my beauty. They are a very light aluminium/alloy material. Fairly easy for a fabricator to either replace or weld, however, I also found an ... interesting replacement, which I wil take a photo of and post here later.

Good luck, I wll be following with interest as this time next year, I will be doing the same. In the mean time, I just bought an '84 750 Katana to get some practice on.

englishstiv wrote:Well the frame is now just a shell ready for sandblasting which I hope to do over the weekend, I have managed to find several other cracks on brackets???

I know from the damaged bodywork and previous owners knowledge/history of the bike that it has had a few slow road slides so I wanted to check the frame for any strange twists or other damage thank fully there is nothing and to be honest the bike rode straight and true in the brief time I had her on the road before this stripdown.

I have found somewhere for the engine brackets however the one welded on the frame has a stress crack which was probably due to the front bracket being damaged so this will require a supporting weld

Can anyone confirm for me that this is the correct shape of the front fairing/headlight frame this is shown from underneath and is on the right side as you sit on the bike, if it was straight the frame itself would be crooked so I assume this is correct? Just confirming folks

This has been another real headscratcher for me is the bolt threaded in here or loose? As if it is, then I will have to drill it out as it siezed solid the two bracket bolts were the same only I eventually persuaded them with brut force and heat to pop out - BUT NOT WITH THIS ONE

The starter motor bolt is badly corroded and I will have to grind this off and renew I will also sort out the earth adaption shown elswhere on this site while I am about it aswell.

I found one other bracket a bit twisted and cracked also, this looks like its made of an alloy metal?

There is more to come and lots of fun - wait till you see the state of my body panels that I am starting repair???

Posted: **Mon Jan 25, 2010 10:25 pm**

Well it's been a while but I finally started on the bodywork, Having known that the bike had been thrown down the road a few times with various previous owners and the last having been a bit of a slap and paint type of restorer I thought I might as well peel back the years of paint and start from afresh and boy did I get a surprise.....................

Having used a hot air gun I melted away up to 10 layers of primer, etch, filler and final coats of paint to find a multitude of repairs and damage...........so now the fun begins

amazing what a bit of bog and paint can hide - no wonder the bike leaned to to the left!!!

This is a slither of paint pretty thick ugh?

THE FUN CONTINUES .....the wheels are next to have their paint stripped...

Posted: **Mon Jan 25, 2010 10:32 pm**

englishstiv wrote:Having used a hot air gun

Don't the plastic fairings go melted with the hot air gun?
Ciao

Posted: **Mon Jan 25, 2010 10:51 pm**

No they won't.
the material is GRP (Glass reinforced plastic or in this case polyester)
If you're using an electric paint stripper and behave gentle it's OK.
the paint starts to weaken up at about 100 degree Celsius, I believe.
the GRP takes a lot of heat more to get damaged.
I have also a set of battered 907 panels waiting for repair laying around.

Ducbertus

Posted: **Mon Jan 25, 2010 10:54 pm**

It depends on how hot you heat the surface, it does help that I am professionally trained at this as well, also theses panels are not exactly plastic as they are a fiberglass composite the side air deflector shell covers are plastic and these need a little more care. I also have the benefit that I am still not removing all the paint as at this white surface level there is still amazingly 5 coats of paint remaining!!! It peeled away that easily that it took just under four hours to complete this stage and will probably take that long to clean my garage floor

Posted: **Mon Jan 25, 2010 11:06 pm**

I have spent about 2 hours plus tonight trying to tease that bolt out of the rear shock fork hanger with heat (and lot's of it - electric and gas), and brute force and it's not budging so tomorrow I am buying a drill bit and drilling the bugger out what a pain this is being, I might just buy another hanger - are they the same as on the 750 and 906?

Posted: **Tue Jan 26, 2010 8:54 am**

you mean the linkage on the bottom of the swingarm where the shock is mounted, too ? That`s the same on all.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/87-92-Du ... ccessories

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DUCATI-P ... ccessories

G.

Posted: **Tue Jan 26, 2010 12:50 pm**

IIIIII! thankyou

Posted: **Tue Jan 26, 2010 12:54 pm**

I'd take it to someone with a hydraulic press before trying to drill it out....

Posted: **Tue Jan 26, 2010 1:26 pm**

I am having my panels bead blasted to remove the old paint.
The finish is a bit like shark/dolphin skin in that it has a slight rough/dimpled finish.

Posted: **Tue Jan 26, 2010 1:28 pm**

I'd take it to someone with a hydraulic press before trying to drill it out...

I thought about that and was quoted £40.00 by a local machine shop

They also implied they were concerned with it being a soft aluminum fork about causing it to buckle without good purchase/support, I have tried clamping it with the vice and using tubing to support it and pressing it that way myself it is rock solid even with heat, my other concern is any damage that I may cause to the lower pivot on the shock itself as that could be were it is seized, if I drill it may create some additional heat that will assist in releasing it, I thought about grinding between the spacers but none of my discs are fine enough. If I have to sacrifice the pivot arm then that will happen but only as a last resort.

Posted: **Tue Jan 26, 2010 1:32 pm**

I am having my panels bead blasted to remove the old paint.
The finish is a bit like shark/dolphin skin in that it has a slight rough/dimpled finish.

If I did that with these half the the panel would of probably disintegrated

Posted: **Tue Jan 26, 2010 4:30 pm**

guess I`d rather use paint stripper than bead blast fairing parts.

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Re: MY 1992 907ie Rebuild was a tidy up now it's a full strip.

Re: MY 1992 907ie Rebuild was a tidy up now it's a full strip.

Re: MY 1992 907ie Rebuild was a tidy up now it's a full strip.

Re: MY 1992 907ie Rebuild was a tidy up now it's a full strip.

Re: MY 1992 907ie Rebuild was a tidy up now it's a full strip.

Re: MY 1992 907ie Rebuild was a tidy up now it's a full strip.

Re: MY 1992 907ie Rebuild was a tidy up now it's a full strip.

Re: MY 1992 907ie Rebuild was a tidy up now it's a full strip.

Re: MY 1992 907ie Rebuild was a tidy up now it's a full strip.