ducatipaso.org

Frankie, if U have empty eproms, take a look, are they suitable for make copies from original, as there are several "very close to each others" Eproms.... That all you can see only from eprom data sheets to compare them.... if you have burner its not all... have to know more....

i still have the files from these e-proms if anyone wants to try to burn one:

http://forums.ducatipaso.org/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=3055

if u do i can e-mail u the files, i want a copy if u do burn them please!!!!


doug

BTW, all eeprom can be erased with UV light, not infared. Exposing your chip to the sun or any low UV source sets a bit in the eeprom so that the manufacturer knows the ecu has been opened. If you take a UV light and expose the window under the sticker it will erase or reset any eeprom so that it has to be or can be reprogrammed. Also most ICC eeproms can be reprogrammed in any pc all you need is the proper software and the cahonies to give it a try,It just ain't that complicated..........more on this in the future..............can u spell GPL'd 40 years ago?

ONLY WAY to "go on" with different chips(to get best performance) is make dyno runs

BULLSHIT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Best way maybe,ONLY WAY, BULLSHIT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! The only advantage a dyno has is Power output measurements

For ME its ONLY way, as i dont start to "quess", "what can be good" chip just to MY bike. Every bike is little different and need maybe different fuel/air mixture to suitable part of power-, or torque curve....Its ALSO BEST method to get 100% right air/fuel mixture....

Surely you have to have dyno, suitable software, like FIM and some suitable chip, what can be adjusted by FIM software. one of my very good friends(own 888) bought Gagiva Elephant 900 and he put to it ST2 electrics with M16 ECU and he owns dyno. it take from him about 15 Dyno runs to adjust new chip to his Elephant and he is real gury in that eprom system.... At the end he was very satisfied to his both dyno curves(torque and power)... its only knowing things and many dyno runs, if u want it to be 100% perfect.. to someone "90%" is already "perfect"

bullshit.....

For sure, Antti is right.
The best way to do the best tune is a Dyno check to have the right curves.
Without that, you can't know how good is your tuning even if the mechanic's sensibility used to do the same work until the Dyno's era.
Unfortunately, FIM stopped its business so that it would need another way to burn the eeprom in the right way.
So, I'd be satisfied by the stock FIM chip...
Ciao

FIM base eprom for 907IE(cant remember just now code) is propably best chip to starting point if use open cans and engine mods are not so big. If engine is tuned higly, then it is more far from normal fuel/air ratio and then surely mods to eprom must be much bigger ones. that can be done only with dyno well..... I stay still in that what i say earlier....

Its big pitty, that owner of FIM, Duanne was also asshole in some things, as my ST4S ECU have been in Australia now about 2.5 years for fixing, as another cylinder started to drop down when engine get hot AND he dont care of it at all... Its still in Australia and Finland FIM seller cant get any mails from him, no contacts anymore... Seems, that i have lost that ECU already and he dont want to help with it anymore.... i would say, that "asshole" and i stay also in that till i get my ECU back, fixed, or witout fixing, as its still my property no matter it have some failure..... bad service from FIM, but good maps to eproms.....

btw i have also FIM chip in my ST2, but its later version with copy protection circuit under chip..... cant copy such FIM eprom!

There are tools available for a lot less than one trip to a dyno to measure afr. Having the ability to measure your AFR on a closed course with a stopwatch will beat a dyno run for max HP everytime. In order to make a dyno useful you need to be able to run a transient cycle and to run a transient you need to be able to simulate inertia and also need to be able to measure chemistry.Now if you measure your Air Fuel Ratio while running a transient cycle that duplicates your favorite track, you will have a winner. The point here is Paso ignitions are not that complicated. On the 750 and the 906 all there is is a spark table. On the 907 there is a very basic fuel map as well. Dyno runs alone are like a pissing contest. First guy says waters cold,second guy says Deep too,third guy says yeah but its muddy on the bottom. To maximize your performance with a Paso get set up to read your digiplex tables, get your self an AFR meter or gauge,buy a stopwatch and go to your favorite circuit
The down side of most commercially available dynos is that they are not setup to measure or simulate inertia. With out the ability to simulate real world conditions you will never get real world performance from a dyno run. Better off with a stopwatch and notes. A dyno with the capability to simulate inertia will run you at least 450,000 USD and thats all you get. Well beyond even a successful shops ability to lay out capitol. They are few and far between.
Basically it comes down to;
you need a dyno capable of running a transient cycle and capable of tracking your AFR or measure chemistry to make real changes to performance
anything else is just a cock fight but then thats jm2c
Now don't get the idea that I think dynos are useless, I have 8 of them where I work and thats what I do to pay the bills. Even a minor change in backpressure gets hundreds of hours of dyno testing to verify our findings are repeatable
RO

An LM-1 0r 2, Logworks3 & a MyECU is not too bad either.
Log short runs (otherwise you`ll have too much info...) of various conditions, load, RPM etc
in reality on the road.
Analyze, map, test again.
Hard part is to know what to do w the info you get....

Sorry, that i forget to mention, that his(my 888 friend) dyno is just inertia dyno and its calibrated to show exact same results as here in main town one very accurate dyno (to everybody thrust). Surely there are huge amount of shit dynos also, but i dont thrust them at all... AND just thats why those dyno run curves are not possible to compare each others. But if same bike gives just same curves in 2 VERY GOOD QUALITY INERTIA dyno's, then i start to belive them.....

I wouldnt make any modifications to my eprom after some race track lap results, as then there are sooooooo many variable things to make one lap faster than one other. As everybody knows also REAL road racers make another laps faster than some other lap.... If You Higgy want do it so, its your choise, but for me its not accurate system..... too unrealible....

btw, driving style is also one thing. Some want torque more to down, for some other its not so important and maybe want it more upper..... for someone power curve is more important, etc. etc.... some want to use more higher RPM than some other..... are you making bike for race track, or to normal street use.... etc..... i quess, that only few is making race bike from Paso, but making it "nicely behaving" bike to just OWN PURPOSE..... with such things you can make mods quite easily in dyno run with system that can change ratios, etc.... but as i told, need very good dyno and that is not enough.....

Everyone of us have own opinions about things and i appreciate it....

sorry my very bad english....

Like G hinted,you'll get further faster with an LM-1 or LM-2. Some things just can't be done properly on a dyno, any dyno; it's just not practical

Why should i invest to some LM-1, or LM-2,etc, as he (my friend) have very good Co meter with wide band lambda in his inertia dyno? I am not in any hurry with this thing, so i dont need any "fast system". I havent look closer what such LM-1 do, but if its only Co meter, no thanks. And i want to keep my P7 ECU in my bike, as its very realible and i havent had any problems with it, so no need to change ECU.

Antti
I'm not trying to sell you anything.
I am glad you have access to a dyno and a co meter.They are certainly very usefull in a cumbersome sort of way.
Lm-1 is a lot more than, as you say a co meter.
Lm-2 is even more than an LM-1 in terms of what it can do
The point is there are a lot of affordable options outside of dyno land for Paso'ist to make use of in making their own changes to the performance of their machines
Dyno is just the most expensive option if you happen to be a multi millionaire or as in your case have a friend with a dyno.Most expensive and not the most useful.

Dyno is the cheapest time if you have a non-street legal machine. Track time is very expensive. Outside that, I agree with you.

Out of curiosity, what do you do for a living that involves 8 dynos?

Sam

Track time can be expensive true but dyno time is not cheap either. It all depends on what you are trying to do. For my frame of reference I am referring to your average Paso owner. As far as the track goes,there are group rides at every track in the USA which are very affordable.

Out of curiosity, what do you do for a living that involves 8 dynos?

I work for a private lab which does Federal EPA and C.A.R.B. certifications for engines and devices related to ICC engines. Our dynos range from 5 HP to 2500 HP
We have 2 chassis and 6 engine dynos up and running at present. We have a full range of chemistry/particulate capability as well as the ability to prototype.
With all of this multi milliion dollar equipment at our disposal,we still find when it comes to engine " performance" development, and mind you we can recreate any
conditions anywhere on the planet and document it in the required repeatable format, a good data recorder such as the lm series is indisposable.
My wife says I talk to much,so enough from me on this subject Q.E.D.