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Still lovely read, G!

How thick are the risers, 1"?

yes, Gert. They are 1" high.

So the electrics is finished.
I skipped one little detail though as I couldn`t solve it. Is anyone into electric puzzles ?!
The horn is activated by +12V (grey wire). The alarm has the option to connect the bikes horn but it switches only negative. To make it switching +12V you need to add a relay, that`s clear. But wired like this the horn still doesn`t work when the alarm is set off.
Obviously there`s still a problem with the ground. As next I added one cable from the horn (disconnecting the green/black wires) to the output of the alarm keeping the relay. Like this the alarm would switch +12V and negative at the same time but obviously the output of the alarm is no proper ground as the horn only makes scratching noises.
At last I disconnected the green/black connection to the horn and connected it to ground instead. The result is the horn now works when the alarm sets off but the horn won`t work when hitting the button.
I gave up. The alarm has an own siren that blows off your ears anyway.
If somebody has a suggestion let me know. I may give it another try sometime in the future.

G.

Maybe add a second horn, keeping them seperated? Surely there's room, as I was able to squeeze a dual trumpet air horn under there.

I am not the one to help sort out electrical glitches, sorry.

Most likely you need a diode,alarms are generally a latching circuit.Pm me your details G, we can sort it out
higgy

G keep the circuit simple, dont use a car relay, get a miniature 12v relay the ones with the clear plastic casing, they have separate coil and switch terminals, feed a +12v to one side of the coil terminal and then the alarm output 12v neg will complete circuit (when alarm is activated), then wire the switch n/open terminals and connect across horn switch wires (from one side of switch to other side of switch) this will work and not cause any preblems
Claude
PS:actually this woudnt work as the horn is disabled when the ingnition is off, then get the +ve12v from battery to one side of N/O switch and the other side of switch to horn

Claude,

do you mean like this ?





That`s what I tried but it didn`t work as there`s no direct ground connection to the horn.

streetsurfer, the alarm has an own siren and I just wanted to connect the bike`s horn also as it has the option. I wouldn`t want to add a third horn

G.

that looks good, the ground connection to the horn?...that is permanent, are you sure that the alarm itself is wired correctly, and that the output to the horn is -ve...also does the relay have a definite click or is it not getting the right voltage?

the alarm activates the relay and switches 12V to the horn. The horn doesn`t honk as the green/black wires are not connected directly to ground.
If you add a ground a fuse blows and if you replace the green/black with a ground it works, but that puts the horn switch out of function.
So my guess is the solution may require one or two diodes.

you shouldnt require diodes, I cant see the horn on your wiring diagram is it number 14, Im not sure if the horn has a permanent -ve earth or not, if not then the miniature relay has normally 2 sets of switches, use the second n/o switch to momentarily earth the horn to complete circuit when alarm is activated.

So as this little issue was also solved I could finally return to the carburation and airbox.
I had modified the original box years ago for the standard Mikunis but this reduced its volume, which worked fine though. With the TDMRs I wanted something bigger, much bigger. With all the engine mods the airbox should not be a restricting factor. Looking at the 748/916 and other models with injection systems I decided to go a similar way and put the carb inside the airbox. I don`t know if this was ever done so it`s experimental.



The position of the airfilter and the inlet snorkels should be similar to the one of the 907ie. Indirect intake no ram air like system.



The work on the CFK airbox started probably 4 years ago with a copy of the lower side of the tank. The foam shape made had the maximum size possible in the frame. Nothing else than the size was taken into account. The actual volume was bigger than the one of a 996 Racing airbox.























With the ongoing restoration the airbox disappeared in the shelf until I recently got back to this stage of my project and blew the dust off it again.
With everything now connected I noticed the box was too big. It was hard getting to the screwed nipples of the carb manifolds, the rpm meter cable was bent and it was not possible to remove the valve cover unless the airbox was removed and to do that the carb would have had to be taken off. Furthermore the rear cylinder would have gotten less air and I didn`t like that.




So a few days ago the chopping began. The front nose was completely removed, the bottom and the bottom rear cut off. The bottom was lifted, the shape of the rear modified. Then the complete rear section was cut off so it can be removed when needed giving enough space to check valve clearance.










The custom made inlet manifold vs an original one (on top). It was ported with the heads matching carb and valves.





G.

Ever considered pods?

Ever considered pods?

Why? that would be entirely to easy and not nearly as much fun

not to forget the fun by worn fingertips and blisters on the thumb from endless hours of sanding.
Temperature should drop to 13°C this weekend, so off to the garage ...

G.

endless hours of sanding.

OH,My personal favorite, right up there with root canal