Steering Head Bearing Replacement

[Desmo_Demon]

I was wondering if someone here can help me. It looks like I need to replace the steering head bearings on my Paso, but the components are not like what is listed in the parts manual.

In the parts manual, for the top bearing assembly, it is listed as this for going from the top to the bottom:

1) Ring nut
2) Junk ring (a seal?)
3) O-ring
4) Distance Piece
5) Bearing
6) Washer


On my bike, it went like this

1) Ring nut
2) O-ring
3) Distance piece with an o-ring in a groove in the center hole where the steering stem goes
4) Bearing (taper-roller bearing - SKF brand)
5) Washer (I think it is there, but the race is still in the frame)

I have the triple clamps removed and the races are still in the frame. It appears that the previous owner had powder-coated the frame, but left the races in it and masked the contact areas off when powder-coating it. The upper race has about 6 or 7 really bad spots in it. Looks like the roller bearings were just digging into it.



Now for some questions:

1) Are the races sitting on the washer, and it is the washer that I will use to help drive the races out by hitting it with a hammer/punch from the opposite side?

2) Is it possible that the stock head bearings are SKF brand, or were these probably replaced without removing the original races? (The bearings are marked "SKF 32005(?)" - I can't make out the last number)

3) Is the lower bearing pressed onto the steering stem, and is there some other way to remove it other than by using a special bearing puller?


Any assistance is greatly appreciated.

[Finnpaso]

Now for some questions:

1) Are the races sitting on the washer, and it is the washer that I will use to help drive the races out by hitting it with a hammer/punch from the opposite side?

2) Is it possible that the stock head bearings are SKF brand, or were these probably replaced without removing the original races? (The bearings are marked "SKF 32005(?)" - I can't make out the last number)

3) Is the lower bearing pressed onto the steering stem, and is there some other way to remove it other than by using a special bearing puller?

Remembering now(cause many years, when i changed those bearings to my 907... ):

1: I think, U can use soft hammer to take them out from opposite side

2: Take YOUR bearings to bearing company/seller and they measure those bearings and sell new ones to You. Its "safe way"! :laugh: Those originals can be SKF also, but better, that You overhaul Your system, AS IT WAS!!! No matter, what microfilm shows(they are sometimes wrongly, like Ducati electrics....)

3: "Puller" is easiest way to take them away, but if not good puller, then "pressing" with good tools, or with soft plastic hammer(like i did...)

I hope this help at least little...

[jcslocum]

The washer is under the upper race? Then it will be what you are hitting on when you drive the race out. Walk them out slowly or they will jam in the hole. Some folk do replace the "inner" bearing and race when they can't get the outer race out. It's a BAD practice.


I have no idea if SKF is stock. No reason they couldn't be.

Use an angle grinder to cut the bearing off of the stem. Easy and fast.

[Desmo_Demon]

Thanks for the advice, guys. It's not too far off from anything that I was thinking, on all counts.


I got home from work this afternoon, and I slowly knocked both races out of the stem tube without any issues. There was a washer under each race (between the frame and race), as I was expecting. The races were definitely left in the frame when it was powder-coated, as the washer under them and the edge of the race both had some powder-coating finish on them. I was surprised how easily they came out despite this. The bottom bearing doesn't look too bad, but the race on the upper is shot. I'll just replace both since I've already got it apart.



The bearings I pulled out are SKF model "32005X" which have dimensions of 25mm i.d. x 47mm o.d. x 15mm depth. They seem to run about $16-$24 (USD) for SKF brand and cross-referenced brands. This size is used in several automobile applications, as Advanced Auto and Auto Zone informed me that they either have them in stock or can order them. I haven't bought any, yet, as I won't need them until the middle of next week or later (I have my front rim out being straightened ).

[persempre907]

I have my front rim out being straightened

Really, the Oscam rims are very pliable, or did you fit the Brembo 17"?

If you still have the Oscam, try also to buy another one!

When I had the 906, I had to straighten a rim, but it had been cracked !

Ciao

[Finnpaso]

Some folk do replace the "inner" bearing and race when they can't get the outer race out. It's a BAD practice.

VERY, VERY bad choise!!! Many times cold to that part makes it very easy to come out... We can do such rapairings here easily in wintertime... :funny:

Advice: put also new bearing to icebox, before You start to put it to its place.

[Desmo_Demon]

Really, the Oscam rims are very pliable, or did you fit the Brembo 17"?

If you still have the Oscam, try also to buy another one!

It is the original Oscam rim. It looks like a previous owner had hit a curb or pothole, and the lip of the rim was bent outward in three places. Two spots weren't very bad at all, and I almost didn't see them, but after taking the tire off of the wheel, the one was farily noticeable. There was a section about 4" long (100mm) where the lip of the rim stuck out about 1/4"-3/8" (7mm-13mm).

I wasn't too sure if it would hold air, and I figured I'd just get it repaired and trued. Getting the rim straightened and trued will be $75 (USD). I've seen used rims go for $50-$125, and then I'd still have to pay for shipping and run the risk that the used rim will not be straight or the bearings will be bad.

VERY, VERY bad choise!!! Many times cold to that part makes it very easy to come out... We can do such rapairings here easily in wintertime... :funny:

Advice: put also new bearing to icebox, before You start to put it to its place.

I would never change just one part of a taper-roller bearing and not the other half (cage and race). I try not to do anything halfway, which is why I'll replace both halves of both bearings. I'd be wasting my time if I only did one half of each bearing or only replaced one bearing instead of both while I had it apart......I already had plans of putting the new race in the freezer before installing it.

[Desmo_Demon]

I totally forgot about this thread....

I bought replacement, taper-roller bearings as being...

Bearing - SKF #32005-X/Q
Measurements - 25mm id x 47mm od x 15mm wid

Further investigation has resulted in the previous owner not installing the triple clamps properly. There are two seals missing (Part # 937817081) which are now obsolete. They are a 45mm ID x 52mm OD x 2mm thickness. I'm currently searching for these or an alternative.

I just wanted to update this thread for any future searches on the subject. I've written a little more about this, here...

http://forums.ducatipaso.org/viewtopic. ... ght=#11288