907ie thats been sitting for 6 years

[gpsheehan]

Its a long story but heres the short version. Have a 907ie thats been sitting for 6 years now. I took the gas tank off and had it in my garage. Have been cleaning the bike up and put a battery in to see if it would turn over before going too much further. Put a gallon of gas in the tank and reconnected the electrical and hoses but the engine cranks but wont turn over. Doesnt appear to have any gas comming out when I disconnected it.
Anyone have any suggestions on how I should proceed before taking it into the shop?
Thanks
Gary

[ducbertus]

You can check fuelsupply step by step.
You said the engine cranked. did it júst cranck or at a "normal" speed.
If it's crancking very low revs the voltage drops way down, ergo no spark. 10 to 11 V should at coils primary circuit should do.
Checked and cleaned the sparkplugs?

checked the filter in the tank.
fuel injectors can be clogged. squirt them with injectorcleaner, connect an compressor (6 Bar) and wire the injector to the accu. by tipping one wire to the plus-pole of the battery you simulate a running situation. maybe you have to reply this more than once.
If the injector blows air now it's ok.

You can check fuel pressure at the injector (should be about 3,5 bar)

Just go step by step through the system.

hope you bring her into life again.

Ducbertus

[Laddie907]

start with the basics - check the kill switch

check for spark; no spark = no go.
this is easiest done with a timing light
or pull the plug out and earth it well
don't just pull off the lead - bad earthing is not good for coils or ignitors

check the fuel pump.
my guess is that if the pump has been dry 6 years or exposed to moisture that it's seized.
it should run for 3 to 5 seconds when the key is turned on.
the pump doesn't run all the time - only often enough to maintain line pressure.
if no line pressure is sensed the pump will shut off (safety feature so you don't turn into a fire ball if you blow a fuel line)
it should pressurize the fuel line to the fuel pressure regulator - you can feel the line pressurize
there are 4 fittings on the tank - only 1 works for fuel delivery
1. fuel outlet
2. fuel return (fitted with non-return valve) this is the screw in fitting
3. overfill / expansion drain
4. cap water drain
if the pump spins but no pressure is delivered outside the tank I'd check the condition of the lines inside - I have had one blow on me...it was only a small hole but the pressure loss would not run the bike - it did backfire on cranking though...

check the tank for corrosion while you're at it
rust scale will clog the filters but can also clog injectors

if you have fuel and spark the engine should at least go BANG on cranking
if not you need to check compression (you can feel this at the exhaust)

it would be helpful to know if the bike was running properly before being stored

[gpsheehan]

Thanks for the suggestions! I'll be working on it this weekend to see if I get it going.
Gary
ps Before it was put into storage it ran fine.

[jcslocum]

ps Before it was put into storage it ran fine.

famous last words!! Follow the instruction you have already and see what you get. Keep the battery chaerged up and don't over crank and burn up the starter.

PS: Change the belts before riding!

[gail]

Some batteries are rubbish, Have heard that if a battery goes flat for ten times ,its all over. Anyone out there, correct me if I am wrong, is it, fully charged , 12V battery should read 13.2 Volt, at 2.2 volts per cell at 6 cells? Think that yuasa yumicron and most reputable gel batteries are the best minimal spec. Best at first sign of weakness , Check with multimeter, discard if below spec, cause it will only get worse when you most need it, cold weather , poor ignition etc
Any thoughts?...................Marty

[Laddie907]

my Paso ate a few batteries...I'm sure it's the clock
they're OK if you run them regularly (every day or so) but if you have a few weeks or more between rides the clock drains the battery enough to cause start problems...if left too long the battery will be dead flat.

the clock's low amp draw causes the battery cells to suphate
this will occur if the voltage gets below about 11 volts.
the sulphate coats the cell plates and the cell will not fully charge - thus a weak cell.

the answer is a de-sulphating charger
yes, my fiends...these little bastards are the duck's nuts for my problems
the principle is the charger delivers rapid charge pulses to the battery - which cause the sulphate to come off the cell
I haven't quite worked out if it just accumulates at the bottom or actually goes back into solution.

the unit I bought is a CTEK XS3600
it does the smaller 14 amp hour batteries at lower 800milli amp charge and a seperate higher amp setting for up to 200 amp hour (so you can also do the family truckster or the pleasure cruiser...)
the unit comes with a quick connect coupling if you chose to fit it
they're not cheap at about $AUD120 but it did really ressurrect two near new batteries I had that would not hold charge - so it has almost paid for itself.
they are also OK for gel batteries.
there are probably cheaper ones available - I dunno.

I hate that fuckin' clock...one day I'm gunna smash it...

[ducbertus]

Thanks for sharing your expirience about the charger.
I knew the clock kills batteries. so I disconnet the negetive lead of the batterie.
End of problem. maybe a little fuzzy, but sure.

Ducbertus

[Tigger]

Hi there guys

Over here in the UK, we have a charger called an optimate, although there are now several generic options available, which you hook up to the bike every time you leave it, and not only will it desulphate dead batteries, but will also, when the battery is fully charged, keep a maintenance trickle running into the battery. Ideal for bike with power draining clocks/alarms.

Of course, you have to be lucky enough to have a power supply to your garage/shed. I have managed to keep the same battery going for 5 years without disconnecting the battery or disabling the clock. They are about £20 upwards.

Best of luck with getting the bike up and running.

Bryn

[ducbertus]

Hi Bryn

I heard a lot of good things about the optimate (are there several types?) on the website of the Ducati Club Netherlands.
Did you know the Ducati Club Netherland bought a Desmosedeci RR for the members to hire the bike for a week or a weekend?
As I'm a member I certainly will try it (€ 150/ weekend and Kilometers charged extra).

Ducbertus

[Tamburinifan]

So, which lead kills the clock? Which wire to cut?

[persempre907]

Hi Bryn

I heard a lot of good things about the optimate (are there several types?) on the website of the Ducati Club Netherlands.
Did you know the Ducati Club Netherland bought a Desmosedeci RR for the members to hire the bike for a week or a weekend?
As I'm a member I certainly will try it (€ 150/ weekend and Kilometers charged extra).

Ducbertus

I'd come in Netherlands!!!

Hi there guys

Over here in the UK, we have a charger called an optimate, it desulphate dead batteries

Really, it's sold worldwide, and I have his brother the Accumate.

I have preferred that, because the Optimate puts a too low current out, 0,6 Ah, if I well remember. So, to recharge a 19 Ah battery, it would need more than one day!

The Accumate puts a good 1,2 Ah out , so not too much time.

Besides, it's able to desulphate of the batteries only when they have an enough voltage.

If they are too much discharged, it needs the Accumate Pro charger.

Both are able to stay permanently connected to the bike when not used, as in the wintertime.

Ciao

[ducbertus]

Hi Gert,

According to the wiring diagram the dashboard has 3 connectors.
2 of them are 4-pins and one has 6 pins.
the orange lead of this 6-pin connector goes to the battery.
I haven't checked this on my bike but maybe you a pull out the connector of the orange lead.

Ducbertus

[gpsheehan]

I just wanted to thank everyone for their advice on getting my 92 907 going. Turns out the fuel pump went. Parts America had an exact replacement for $300.
It now runs and I'm in the process of cleaning it up so I can get it on the road.
Thanks again.
Gary

[gasfireman]

Gary

If its been stood that long, the seal housing on the water pump can go causing oil and water to mix when hot. Early ones have a couple of cheap seals and bearings costing you about £3 later ones can be fitted with a 916 sliding seal / bush assembly. The early ones would need the bore taking out to a clearance rather than press fit if you want to upgrade to the 916 type seals, its only a couple of thou.