ducatipaso.org

Ok, I know I have seen it somewhere here, but.....

The temperaguage on my dash is not showing any increase (in fact nothing at all) in temp as the engine heats up. This, after the fixing of the Starter Sprag. Probably caused by draining of the coolant etc. I have topped up the system, there is fluid all through the cooling system, both above and below the thermostat, in the radiator etc.

I am assuming there is just a disconnection somewhere in the wiring from the sensor to the guage...but where. Anyone experienced this previously and can point to a possible connector?...I have looked and cant find the problem.

If the sensor has gone east, I am assuming the radiator fan wont start also???

Dazed and confused......yet again.



Oh, the starter now works brilliantly, first push of the button...the original spring must have been 2 meters long I think.

There is short metal tube up/behind radiator, where are 3 sensors: one(switch) for fan, one for temp meter and one for ECU. I think, U have forget to connect that sensor wire, so check it first..... As I told fan have OWN switch there.

Jaffa

Finnpaso is correct - I'll just add a whole lot of confusing crap...as i do.

There are 3 fittings in the tube
1: thermostatic switch [ for fan ] blk violet wires which is independant of the temperature gauge - so the fan will work even if the gauge sensor or WTS is dead.

2: cooling water temp transmitter single blue-white wire
this is the one that goes to the instruments on the dash

3: Water temp sensor (WTS) to ECU plug has Grey-Black & Orange wires
This one only sends the signal to the ECU.

the sensors are NTC resistors and can be tested with a meter for resistance at different temperatures. If it's dead or part-dead you'll need to replace it; they are fairly common auto sensors so you don't need a Ducati "genuine" part.

My guess is that the temp gauge not working will be the instrument circuit board & plug connection (which is utter, utter, utter crap design...)

good luck; let me know if you need any more details on how to test this stuff.

All is good in the world of cooling systems.

Apparently, the system actually needs to be full, i.e, no air in the system, to actually read the coolant temperature.

Its absolutely necessary to ensure there is no undue/excess air in the system, otherwise it will gather at the sensors, giving complete false readings...well not false actually....air temperatures in the system, rather than the actual coolant temp.

There is a thread in here that explains that it is necessary to pump/purge all air out of the lines while running the engine, thereby expelling all undue bubbles.

No problems with the connectors guys, thanks for the input...the problem was actually the idiot trying to get it right.

Regards