Bleeding/replacing clutch
Bleeding/replacing clutch
I was trying to bleed the clutch today, I saw two methods to do it online, and the second one started to work, but not that much pressure. (I accidentally opened it up when I replaced the stator)
Which one do you open when you bleed on the slave thing for the clutch? The larger one facing out or the smaller one with the rubber cap pointing up? I just tried the larger one and was going good, but after I filled the top reservoir up like 5 times it was just a little bit more pressure, so I tried to do it to the one with the rubber cap on the top and I turned it to hard, and it broke off, not the little bolt, the casing the bolt goes in...
What is a good cheaper replacement for the whole thing?
-Also, how much pressure should it feel like? Pretty tight or what, and will the pressure be the same as when the case is on and the engine is on?
Thanks
Which one do you open when you bleed on the slave thing for the clutch? The larger one facing out or the smaller one with the rubber cap pointing up? I just tried the larger one and was going good, but after I filled the top reservoir up like 5 times it was just a little bit more pressure, so I tried to do it to the one with the rubber cap on the top and I turned it to hard, and it broke off, not the little bolt, the casing the bolt goes in...
What is a good cheaper replacement for the whole thing?
-Also, how much pressure should it feel like? Pretty tight or what, and will the pressure be the same as when the case is on and the engine is on?
Thanks
- paso750
- paso grand pooh-bah
- Posts: 5568
- Joined: Sun Jul 18, 2004 12:00 am
- model: 750 Paso
- year: 1987
- Location: southern Germany
Re: Bleeding/replacing clutch
Jeez, everytime I read a new post from you I get goosebumps. It`s like having to stop to watch an accident. I guess it didn`t work out with the Civic yet.
So if I understand correctly you tried to bleed the clutch and opened the bolt facing outwards ? That`s the banjo bolt that mounts the clutch line to the slave cylinder.
Why not check any service manual first ? They are all available here for download.
The bleeder screw is always the one with a rubber cap on. I wonder how strong you must tighten to crack the clutch cylinder housing with it.
Ducatis used different length clutch push rods depending on model years. The 907ie push rod is 32,5cm length and is the same on:
Ducati 907 I.E. `92
Ducati 916 `94
Ducati 916 Monop.-Senna `95-
Ducati 916 SP `96
Ducati 916 `98
Ducati Monster 900 `93
Ducati Monster 900 `94
Ducati ST 2 `97
Ducati 748 SP, Biposto
Ducati 851 `90 SP
Ducati 851 `91-`92
Ducati 888 Superbike `92
Ducati 888 `93->
Ducati 900 SS `92
Ducati 900 SS F.E. `98
Ducati 900 SS/SL `94-`97
Any Duc slave clutch cylinder pre 2000 should fit.
All with the # numbers:
236.1.010.4A
236.1.001.1A
23610011A
236.1.001.2A
23610012A
236.1.001.3A
23610013A
236.1.010.1A
23610101A
236.1.010.2A
23610102A
236.1.010.3A
23610103A
This one should fit http://www.ebay.com/itm/1997-97-Ducati- ... 75&vxp=mtr
The clutch is not connected to the alternator cover neither is it servo supported so it won`t make any difference if the engine is on or off or if the alternator cover removed.
The clutch is bled properly if you can disengage it without feeling any dragging or the bike pulling forward. The clutch lever should feel rather hard if you pull it.
G.
So if I understand correctly you tried to bleed the clutch and opened the bolt facing outwards ? That`s the banjo bolt that mounts the clutch line to the slave cylinder.

Why not check any service manual first ? They are all available here for download.
The bleeder screw is always the one with a rubber cap on. I wonder how strong you must tighten to crack the clutch cylinder housing with it.
Ducatis used different length clutch push rods depending on model years. The 907ie push rod is 32,5cm length and is the same on:
Ducati 907 I.E. `92
Ducati 916 `94
Ducati 916 Monop.-Senna `95-
Ducati 916 SP `96
Ducati 916 `98
Ducati Monster 900 `93
Ducati Monster 900 `94
Ducati ST 2 `97
Ducati 748 SP, Biposto
Ducati 851 `90 SP
Ducati 851 `91-`92
Ducati 888 Superbike `92
Ducati 888 `93->
Ducati 900 SS `92
Ducati 900 SS F.E. `98
Ducati 900 SS/SL `94-`97
Any Duc slave clutch cylinder pre 2000 should fit.
All with the # numbers:
236.1.010.4A
236.1.001.1A
23610011A
236.1.001.2A
23610012A
236.1.001.3A
23610013A
236.1.010.1A
23610101A
236.1.010.2A
23610102A
236.1.010.3A
23610103A
This one should fit http://www.ebay.com/itm/1997-97-Ducati- ... 75&vxp=mtr
Or what is the right answer. What do you mean by will the pressure be the same when the case is on ?-Also, how much pressure should it feel like? Pretty tight or what, and will the pressure be the same as when the case is on and the engine is on
The clutch is not connected to the alternator cover neither is it servo supported so it won`t make any difference if the engine is on or off or if the alternator cover removed.
The clutch is bled properly if you can disengage it without feeling any dragging or the bike pulling forward. The clutch lever should feel rather hard if you pull it.
G.
Re: Bleeding/replacing clutch
sweet thanks. Do I need to replace the push rod if I get a new slave? (that sounds weird)
How do I bleed it? When I did it to the bolt on the clutch line I tried 2 methods I read online, (just the fast ways if I don't have a pump around).
-The first way I tried was pump the clutch. a few times, then hold, then open the bolt, then close the bolt, then release the clutch. That didn't work...
-The second way was to open the bolt, then press the clutch in , then close the bolt, then let go of the clutch, and that started to work a little?
Is the second way also the way to do it with the bleeder screw? And should the cap on the bleeder screw be open or closed while I do this?
Thanks again
How do I bleed it? When I did it to the bolt on the clutch line I tried 2 methods I read online, (just the fast ways if I don't have a pump around).
-The first way I tried was pump the clutch. a few times, then hold, then open the bolt, then close the bolt, then release the clutch. That didn't work...
-The second way was to open the bolt, then press the clutch in , then close the bolt, then let go of the clutch, and that started to work a little?
Is the second way also the way to do it with the bleeder screw? And should the cap on the bleeder screw be open or closed while I do this?
Thanks again
- ducbertus
- paso grand pooh-bah
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- model: 907 I.E.
- year: 1991
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Re: Bleeding/replacing clutch
hi,
with the second attempt your nearly there.
open the bleeder bolt, push in the clutch lever or brake lever, close the bleeder, relieve the lever and repeat the sequence.
good luck. ( If the brakes or clutch don't feel right, try again, don't ride, than you live longer)
Bertus
with the second attempt your nearly there.
open the bleeder bolt, push in the clutch lever or brake lever, close the bleeder, relieve the lever and repeat the sequence.
good luck. ( If the brakes or clutch don't feel right, try again, don't ride, than you live longer)
Bertus
- englishstiv
- paso grand pooh-bah
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- year: 1992
- Location: Manchester, England.
Re: Bleeding/replacing clutch
Jeez, everytime I read a new post from you I get goosebumps. It`s like having to stop to watch an accident.










907IE Oh boy I do so love your threads.................please, please, please keep posting if only to assure us you are still upright on the bike..........if you don't sell it of course

I am pretty sure if you popped down to were you took that safety course someone will help you with getting that clutch bled.
Also don't try bleeding it with those flip flops on

DUCATI 907ie 1992
HARLEY DAVIDSON ELECTRA GLIDE CLASSIC 1991
Ducati Streetfighter 955 V2
HARLEY DAVIDSON ELECTRA GLIDE CLASSIC 1991
Ducati Streetfighter 955 V2
Re: Bleeding/replacing clutch
englishstiv wrote:
I am pretty sure if you popped down to were you took that safety course someone will help you with getting that clutch bled.
Also don't try bleeding it with those flip flops on
Haa, that's what I'll probably have to do, I called all the places nearby and they said they only work on cars.
I tried to use metal epoxy to put it back on but it didn't work after 24 hours

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DUCATI-S2R-S4R- ... 57&vxp=mtr
-Is it possible that ones like this would work, or the one posted above, and the line going from the top instead of the layout of mine where it is facing the outside? (like the first link at stein-dinse)
Anyone tried one of these speed bleeders? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ducati-Evoluzio ... 53&vxp=mtr
Re: Bleeding/replacing clutch

Oh, I just found this on the forums.
"This is the upgraded Ducati clutch slave cylinder.
It takes the uprated seals from a 916/996
You also need the adapter bolt (which is sold seperately, not as part of the kit)."
So all of these would work just as good? What about where it connects to the reservoir is that the same or easy to change?
----http://www.ebay.com/itm/DUCATI-1098-119 ... 8a&vxp=mtr
---http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ducati-03-749S- ... e5&vxp=mtr
---http://www.ebay.com/itm/DUCATI-HYPERMOT ... a2&vxp=mtr
---http://www.ebay.com/itm/848-Ducati-Clut ... 55&vxp=mtr
---http://www.ebay.com/itm/03-06-Ducati-74 ... bd&vxp=mtr
- paso750
- paso grand pooh-bah
- Posts: 5568
- Joined: Sun Jul 18, 2004 12:00 am
- model: 750 Paso
- year: 1987
- Location: southern Germany
Re: Bleeding/replacing clutch
No you don`t. Not if you get one of the cylinders I listed above.Do I need to replace the push rod if I get a new slave? (that sounds weird)
I only mentioned the push rod length to say that all other clutch slave cylinders that I did not list can`t be used on a 907ie and these are exactly all the ones you`re looking at !
All the ones you list are post model year 2000. These bikes use a longer, 33,2cm push rod. In case the push rod is compatible you could use one of these clutch slave cylinders if you`d swap the push rod, too but I have no experience doing that.
Some aftermarket clutch slaver cylinders come with a tiny adapter/spacer (shown in the middle of this pic). W/o the spacer you can use the clutch slave cylinder on newer bikes and with on older ones with a shorter push rod.

You can ignore that your clutch slave cylinder has the clutch line attached to the side. The 907ie and the early 851 were the only Duc models with that. All others had the clutch line connected to the top via a banjo bolt with integrated bleed nipple. (just like in the photo you posted)
I did post the link to an ebay auction with a part that should fit.
btw
Let me guess you tried that with everything in place meaning you did not drain the clutch fluid, remove, clean and dry the housing before you attempted to fix it. Did you mix the epoxy ?I tried to use metal epoxy to put it back on but it didn't work after 24 hours
-
- Posts: 39
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Re: Bleeding/replacing clutch
HEY THERE PASO 750,YOU ARE TRUELY A PATIENT AND UNDERSTANDING
SOUL. 


"keeping the shiney side up"
- paso750
- paso grand pooh-bah
- Posts: 5568
- Joined: Sun Jul 18, 2004 12:00 am
- model: 750 Paso
- year: 1987
- Location: southern Germany
Re: Bleeding/replacing clutch
you don`t know how many bolts I snapped when I was younger 

Re: Bleeding/replacing clutch
What do you mean mix the epoxy? I thought the white part was the glue. The other part smelled like chocolate but it tasted bad.
- paso750
- paso grand pooh-bah
- Posts: 5568
- Joined: Sun Jul 18, 2004 12:00 am
- model: 750 Paso
- year: 1987
- Location: southern Germany
Re: Bleeding/replacing clutch
what is it you used ? All epoxies usually are 2 component (resin & hardener). These need to be mixed properly otherwise it doesn`t work.
-
- paso grand pooh-bah
- Posts: 1974
- Joined: Wed Dec 05, 2007 12:35 am
- model: 906 Paso
- year: 1990
- Location: Riverton New Zealand
Re: Bleeding/replacing clutch
I think the correct term is " penis fingers " .... fucks everything he touches




I wish I was young again............Id be heaps smarter than last time
Re: Bleeding/replacing clutch
How do you put the shifter on?
I ordered the new cylinder I found used that was exactly the same as mine on ebay, but when it arrived it was different... I bled it and everything, and now there is resistance, I'm not sure how to tell if it is the correct cylinder length.
Now, when I just attached the shifter back on which was off when I took out the stator, it shifts weird. Before, if you shift all the way down, then you can push the shifter down any further, but now you can keep pressing down after you get to the bottom of the shift pattern it just doesn't shift.
-The same thing happens if you shift all the way up, and then at the top you can keep pressing up.
-Right now it is on the center stand if that affects anything.
Thanks!! hopefully I can ride this tomorrow finally.
I ordered the new cylinder I found used that was exactly the same as mine on ebay, but when it arrived it was different... I bled it and everything, and now there is resistance, I'm not sure how to tell if it is the correct cylinder length.
Now, when I just attached the shifter back on which was off when I took out the stator, it shifts weird. Before, if you shift all the way down, then you can push the shifter down any further, but now you can keep pressing down after you get to the bottom of the shift pattern it just doesn't shift.
-The same thing happens if you shift all the way up, and then at the top you can keep pressing up.
-Right now it is on the center stand if that affects anything.
Thanks!! hopefully I can ride this tomorrow finally.