The alternator wires on my 906 have been getting hot at the connectors near the alternator
so I've had to strip the cable back about 4" to get rid of the burnt bits, so now I need to replace
the cables back to the regulator. What size cable should I use? Also I was thinking about leaving
out the connectors and soldering the wires together, is that a wise move or not?
Thanks in advance
Ken
alternator wires
- higgy
- paso grand pooh-bah
- Posts: 3334
- Joined: Tue Jul 29, 2008 9:50 pm
- model: 907 I.E.
- year: 1992
- Location: Hilltown,Pennsylvania
- Contact:
Re: alternator wires
I had my stator rebuilt and had them add 12 gauge multi strand copper lead wires long enough to reach my relocated Shindengen Mosfett SH775 regulator at the rear of the bike
I figured if the lead wires are burnt so are the stator windings.
The Shindengen Mosfett SH775 regulator is a true regulator not a shunt type which should improve the life of the stator as it reduces heat caused by hysterisis and also should eliminate the additional heat caused by lowering the wattage demands with all the LED's I've added in place of the incandescents
I also made a platform to re energize the magnet
I am now in the process of installing a more modern fuse box, wish I'd seen this one
http://motogadget.com/en/electrics/elec ... erung.html
went with this one
http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Wirin ... /pc-8.html
I figured if the lead wires are burnt so are the stator windings.
The Shindengen Mosfett SH775 regulator is a true regulator not a shunt type which should improve the life of the stator as it reduces heat caused by hysterisis and also should eliminate the additional heat caused by lowering the wattage demands with all the LED's I've added in place of the incandescents
I also made a platform to re energize the magnet
I am now in the process of installing a more modern fuse box, wish I'd seen this one
http://motogadget.com/en/electrics/elec ... erung.html
went with this one
http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Wirin ... /pc-8.html
Ducati,making mechanics out of riders since 1946
There's no problem so bad that a little fixing can't make it worse! : )
If it ain't broke keep fixin it till it is
88 750
90 906
92 907ie
There's no problem so bad that a little fixing can't make it worse! : )
If it ain't broke keep fixin it till it is
88 750
90 906
92 907ie
-
- Posts: 296
- Joined: Tue Jul 24, 2012 8:54 am
- model: 907 I.E.
- year: 1992
- Location: Cairns, Queensland, Australia
Re: alternator wires
Hi Ken.
When I did the 907 I used some solar cable I had lying around. It was the same size as 4mm (or maybe 4.5mm) automotive cable. It has the bonus of having a black outer sheath, so can be tied off the frame etc without looking too out of place. I soldered the wiring in place too. Down side of this was I couldn't remove the connection when I did the sprag clutch, though if you leave enough slack, the alternator cover can be swung out of the way and tied to a convenient point while doing the work, so no big drama. Instead of twitching the wires together and soldering, I cut the insides out of a joiner crimp connector (I think it was the red, but may have been the blue?) and soldered these on to the wires of the alternator and the regulator (they have the smaller wires). I didn't crush the bits from the connector, but "shaped" them so they were snug on each wire. Then I laid the cable where I wanted it to go and did the same with that. I put a couple of layers of heat shrink over each join to insulate it all. No problems since, and took about an hour to do all up.
Have you done the Relay/ignition mod yet? Do you have any extra equipment to run, heated grips, higher wattage headlight, driving lights, radio/intercom etc? These will put the Alternator under the pump.
Cheers.
Nick.
When I did the 907 I used some solar cable I had lying around. It was the same size as 4mm (or maybe 4.5mm) automotive cable. It has the bonus of having a black outer sheath, so can be tied off the frame etc without looking too out of place. I soldered the wiring in place too. Down side of this was I couldn't remove the connection when I did the sprag clutch, though if you leave enough slack, the alternator cover can be swung out of the way and tied to a convenient point while doing the work, so no big drama. Instead of twitching the wires together and soldering, I cut the insides out of a joiner crimp connector (I think it was the red, but may have been the blue?) and soldered these on to the wires of the alternator and the regulator (they have the smaller wires). I didn't crush the bits from the connector, but "shaped" them so they were snug on each wire. Then I laid the cable where I wanted it to go and did the same with that. I put a couple of layers of heat shrink over each join to insulate it all. No problems since, and took about an hour to do all up.
Have you done the Relay/ignition mod yet? Do you have any extra equipment to run, heated grips, higher wattage headlight, driving lights, radio/intercom etc? These will put the Alternator under the pump.
Cheers.
Nick.
Re: alternator wires
Hi higgy,higgy wrote:I figured if the lead wires are burnt so are the stator windings.
Is there a reliable test for checking the stator? I checked mine with a multimeter and it
has about 1.4ohm resistance between the windings but none of them are shorting to earth.
I've been looking at the the Shindengen Mosfett SH775 regulator along with others.
The fuse/control boxes look impressive.
Thanks Nick for the connector tip.nickta wrote:Hi Ken.
When I did the 907 I used some solar cable I had lying around. It was the same size as 4mm (or maybe 4.5mm) automotive cable. It has the bonus of having a black outer sheath, so can be tied off the frame etc without looking too out of place. I soldered the wiring in place too. Down side of this was I couldn't remove the connection when I did the sprag clutch, though if you leave enough slack, the alternator cover can be swung out of the way and tied to a convenient point while doing the work, so no big drama. Instead of twitching the wires together and soldering, I cut the insides out of a joiner crimp connector (I think it was the red, but may have been the blue?) and soldered these on to the wires of the alternator and the regulator (they have the smaller wires). I didn't crush the bits from the connector, but "shaped" them so they were snug on each wire. Then I laid the cable where I wanted it to go and did the same with that. I put a couple of layers of heat shrink over each join to insulate it all. No problems since, and took about an hour to do all up.
Have you done the Relay/ignition mod yet? Do you have any extra equipment to run, heated grips, higher wattage headlight, driving lights, radio/intercom etc? These will put the Alternator under the pump.
Cheers.
Nick.
I did the relay mod a few years ago and since upgrade the starter cables, the later made the biggest difference to the bike highly recommend both mods, apart from that I haven't added anything to the bike.
If I do solder the joins I suppose its not too much of a drama to heat them up if I need to disconnect the in the future.
- higgy
- paso grand pooh-bah
- Posts: 3334
- Joined: Tue Jul 29, 2008 9:50 pm
- model: 907 I.E.
- year: 1992
- Location: Hilltown,Pennsylvania
- Contact:
Re: alternator wires
Ducati,making mechanics out of riders since 1946
There's no problem so bad that a little fixing can't make it worse! : )
If it ain't broke keep fixin it till it is
88 750
90 906
92 907ie
There's no problem so bad that a little fixing can't make it worse! : )
If it ain't broke keep fixin it till it is
88 750
90 906
92 907ie
Re: alternator wires
Thanks higgy.higgy wrote:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pk9Ni-rj4dg