Timing Pulley, Oil Leak Anyone?

[rocket_man]

Some of you may remember, not too long ago I had been working the electrical on my '87 Paso, and it is just 'fine' now. I also tuned the carburators and although they appear to want to run rich, the engine sounds good. My main issue right now is that any oil leak I have manages to find a way to drip right on my exhaust pipe! So, either I can install a drip pan...or ensure that my bike is completely sealed. To me, the aesthetically pleasing route is the latter.

I've tracked down all the minor oil leaks and had one remaining...it appears to be coming from the timing pulley. I'm not familiar with the mechanics in this area at all...so has anyone had this problem before, and if so: what obstacles may I run into and will I need any parts?

Thanks!! Once done, the only thing that should be smoking is my tires!

Michael

[Skins]

There is often a leak from the neutral indicator light lead where it goes into the back of the gearbox, and it's hard to fix.

[rocket_man]

Hey Skins!

Yeah, I had a torn gasket on the neutral switch; which I replaced with RTV gasket goop. It stopped the leak, but now I am always in neutral! The gasket probably offset it a little. It was a *$@& to get to (with a standard wrench), so I think I will just live with the Nuetral light on for a while.

I didn't want to get into it, but I patched up the crankcase cover, all of the crush gaskets, and the alternator assy wiring....in addition to the Neutral switch! That was supposed to take care of all my apparent oil leaks -- but the timing pulley seems to have slipped through my initial sweep: it the last source of my smoke screen on wheels (knock on wood).

Unfortunately, I'm not quite sure how to go about it yet. It is a rotating shaft, which means I may need to replace a bearing, or O-ring? The manuals are a little vague here, although I will keep investigating, until I feel confident enough to tear into it.

I do have to admit though, it was real nice riding it again last week. The two years of it sitting in storage, almost allowed me forget what a head turner it is! When kids run out to the street to wave at you...you know you've got a badass ride! Now, if I can just keep it from gagging everyone with burnt oil fumes, I'll be a happy Paso rider.

Michael

[paso750]

if you look at TAV.6 of the P750 parts catalogue you will find #30, which is a seal. To change it of course you need to remove the belts. Be sure that everything aligns correctly when assembling again. You can read the thread "watch the oil level" in the P906 forum to see what can happen if you make a mistake.

The seal of the neutral switch actually serves two functions. It`s seal and washer at the same time. It does exist in 2 thicknesses (I think it`s 0,5 & 1mm). When putting a new switch in you should screw it in by hand without the washer, connect an ohm meter to it and turn it out only so far that you still can measure a short. Then take a feeler gauge and measure clearance of switch to engine case. Normally the washer needed is a 0,5mm. Of course the bike needs to be in neutral position.
If the clearance is too small there`s higher mechanical pressure on the switch and it may break down earlier.

G.

[rocket_man]

G.,

Great info! I will check out the "watch the oil level" thread before moving forward. At the same time, due to my lack of experience in this area, I had been a little vague as to which pulley the leak appeared to be coming from. It is actually the pulley connected to the cranckcase shaft (bottom middle), detailed in TAV.5.

In this case, would the thrust washer (#8) serve the same purpose, of the seal rings found on the cylinder timing pulleys? Or, is an oil leak from this point unlikely? Who knows...oil has a crazy way of surfacing in a completely different location than its source!

Thanks!!

Michael

[jcslocum]

You have a seal leak on the "layshaft" that drives the cams. It's not an uncommon leak and drips down the case so it looks like the fittings that feed the oil cooler are leaking. It's not hard to replace but you will need some skills and a special socket to remove the nut on the pulley shaft. Then pull the seal out and drive in a new one.

Do you have the skills for this?? I can further explain it if you want to do it. A decent Duc mechanic could do it in an hour and have you on your way.

[rocket_man]

That sounds like exactly it! It was tempting to think it was the oil cooler fittings . I have neither the skills, or special tools necessary, but I would like to give it a shot...

So, the layshaft (#7 TAV.5) is geared directly to the crankshaft...which is where the oil is ultimately coming from. Is it as simple as marking the layshaft timing pulley, relative to the crankcase...removing the timing pulley (using the special tool)..and removing/replacing a seal directly behind it? I am having hard time making out, which part is the actual bearing to be replaced, from the drawings. Is it the thrust washer between the timing pulley and the layshaft (#8 TAV.5)?

Thanks a bunch for the assistance. I like doing this stuff myself, especially since it is a pain getting this bike to a local Ducati mechanic. It is easier, and more fun, to order the parts, and do it myself.

Thanks!

Michael

[rocket_man]

Oh...I think it I found it! TAV.10 Cranckase Clutch Side, Seal Ring #34. I'm putting it on order as I type!

[jcslocum]

That drawing sucks! But i'm 99% sure that's the part you need.

You will have to make a socket to loosen the pulley nut. I will find the instructions in the Haynes manual and post them later today. The cam pulley is keyed so it can't go back wrong but you MUST mark everything else. I will write up some instructions and post them with the haynes info.

[rocket_man]

Yeah, I agree! It took my physically holding the drawing directly in front of the timing pulley, to see the relationship. I've been ordering my parts from Munroe Motors, in SF (1 hr drive from Sac), who have been really helpful; they have the bearing, but the special tool for removing the nut has to be 'ordered' (~ 2 wks) and is $110. I'm checking with some of my co-workers first, who are also Duc owners, to see if they have it already.

Instructions would be great, for me and possibly others who run across this in the future. I read the "watch the oil" thread though, and definitely have a full awareness of what could go wrong...Ouch!!

Thanks a bunch!!

Michael

[jcslocum]

If you have a dremel or small grinder you can make the socket. I'm scanning the pages and will post them shortly.

[rocket_man]

I don't have a Dremel, but that is a good option. For the price of a one time use special tool, I could get one with multiple uses: which will also make the special tool I need. I like it!

Michael

[paso750]

the Haynes manual can be downloaded, just check the download thread on top of the P750 forum. You will find the info about the tool on page 2.13.

G.

[rocket_man]

G.

Thanks for the help. I'll probably get to it by next weekend, when I have parts/tools/time.

By the way, how's the riding weather in Germany? It's a nice 24 deg C in Sacramento right now, but it will be HOT soon!

Michael

[jcslocum]

the Haynes manual can be downloaded, just check the download thread on top of the P750 forum. You will find the info about the tool on page 2.13.

G.

Thanks for reminding me of that!!! Now I don't need to fix the crappy scans!

Measure the od of the nut and buy a chrome socket at the hardware store to cut with the dremel.