Headlight conversion

Finnpaso · Post by **Finnpaso** » Sat Dec 16, 2006 10:47 am

That adding 2 relays with bigger wires to headlights is good idea, but be carefull with higher wattage bulbs, cause normal light is designed for 55/60W bulb, so it CAN overheat and cause reflector overheating and damages.... I think, it depends on temperatures, where U drive also... Better use twin headlights with normal bulbs. Then no need to think overheating. Anyway, put those extra relays, fuses and 2.5mm wires from battery, cause it helps also, cause its time for that now(for U). Fuses must be close battery to protect everything. I make extra aluminium plate left side close Paso 750 electrical board, where i put 3 relays: One for lowbeam, one for high beam and one Main relay to protect those small connectors in key switch. 4. relay i put to close coils to get 12V to coils. So, if U want better electrics to 750 Paso, then need to add 4 extra realays... In 907 those light realys i put under dash close to "beeber" also to aluminium extra plate, where i divided current to low and high beam relays and to twin headlights. Function since, like "trains toilet" :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:

Marinus · Post by **Marinus** » Sat Dec 16, 2006 10:57 am

I will try first with the 55w and relays. I dont do much night riding so should be fine. I have put the fuse close to the battery and the relays by the light. What size fuse should I put in it?

Finnpaso · Post by **Finnpaso** » Sat Dec 16, 2006 11:05 am

Count! I=P/U Ohms law! Anyway then U can put "little bigger" low beam bulb, cause that low beam is worst in Paso normal headlight. That dont help so much, cause that original light have awfull spot in low beam. Anyway here in Finland can be found also some H4 bulbs, like 80W to low beam and 60W for high beam. Try to ask from car parts shops those bulbs.

Post by **jcslocum** » Sat Dec 16, 2006 12:54 pm

Amps = watts divided by volts.

Instead of 2 relays for the headlight you can but a double pole relay that is really 2 relays in one housing. They are usually about the same size as a single relay.

Finnpaso · Post by **Finnpaso** » Sat Dec 16, 2006 4:06 pm

jcslocum wrote:Amps = watts divided by volts.

Yes, that is another way to say it... Sorry, i am electrician, so thats why i used those:

I = Current in Amps
P = Power in Watts
U = Voltage in Volts

Finnpaso · Post by **Finnpaso** » Sat Dec 16, 2006 4:10 pm

jcslocum wrote:
Instead of 2 relays for the headlight you can but a double pole relay that is really 2 relays in one housing. They are usually about the same size as a single relay.

Better use different relays.... But surely can use also double relay. Here those double ones are double size also and double price, so if another goes bad, then need to change only one relay... That was my opinion only...

Marinus · Post by **Marinus** » Sat Dec 16, 2006 7:04 pm

Very much appreciated. I never new that simple formula.

Finnpaso · Post by **Finnpaso** » Sat Dec 16, 2006 7:25 pm

:laugh: :laugh: :laugh:

I = U/R

P = I2xR

U = IxR

R = U/I

I = P/U

P = UxI

U = P/I

R = U2/P

etc, etc... U can do now what ever with electrics... :funny:

Btw, R = "R"esistance in ohms

Post by **jcslocum** » Sun Dec 17, 2006 4:07 am

OK, is that a universal code or Finnish!?!

Why not do it the easy way and just use V for volts....

Marinus · Post by **Marinus** » Sun Dec 17, 2006 6:27 am

Thanks Jon. I thought I would wait for someone else to mention that we needed to be let in on the code.
Thanks Antti for your answers, you are a wealth of knowledge even if we need to think a little over what you have said.

Now

The bike has been sitting for a few months after I took off all the fairing to go to the panel shop for the finishing touches and paint. I have also had someone do the shims for me.

I have been out in the shed doing the wiring upgrade for the lights and put in a 70/75w bulb rather then jumping strait to 100w as per Antti's suggestion about over heating the lens.

I went to fire her up with the fuel line and return line poked into a Jerry can and gas came out of the middle of the return line. So I replaced all the original fuel lines as they were all stiff and brittle. The place the return line cracked it had been routed in such a way by someone that i was resting on the rear manifold. good thing I found that one!! :toofar:

Now here is my next challenge.

I had had the battery on the charger over night thinking it could do with a top up but it turns out it was dead empty. The battery is 2 years old and when I put it on the charger it would only take 1amp. It dose not seem to take much charge so I boosted of my car. I let the motor settle and went to take it of the car and it would ether die at idle or if I did it at reves it would backfire 40 to 50cm flames out the tail pipe.

Do I need a new battery after 2 years?
Is the alternator not producing enough to run the bike?]
Is there a regulator problem?
Or is it more then one of these?

I have done a search but come up with so many posts to sort through it's in the to hard basket and I go back to the shed.

If someone has an answer or can send me in the right direction that would be great.

persempre907 · Post by **persempre907** » Sun Dec 17, 2006 8:14 am

I have had to change the battery after only 1 year.
This happens when the bike is not used for a while or sometimes only.
So, all the guys put an electric charging holder (??? they say so???) on the bike. Unfortunately, I can't do the same since I don't have the current in the garage, so I'm planning to put a switch to take off the battery when I don't use the bike.
The clock drain too much the battery and the wiring is not so good.
If you add the relays and improve the wiring section you will improve the starting, but I don't think it will improve that discharging issue.

Ciao

Marinus · Post by **Marinus** » Sun Dec 17, 2006 9:53 am

If only I was so lucky to have a clock that works. Maybe it still uses power thinking about how life once was.

Finnpaso · Post by **Finnpaso** » Sun Dec 17, 2006 2:35 pm

jcslocum wrote:OK, is that a universal code or Finnish!?!

Why not do it the easy way and just use V for volts....

UNIVERSAL!

U = measured in Volts = V Voltage
I = measured in Amperes = A Current
R = measured in Ohms = _O_ Resistance
P = measured in Watts = W Power

U can use also surely Volts, Amperes, Ohms, and Watts

Finnpaso · Post by **Finnpaso** » Sun Dec 17, 2006 2:47 pm

Marinus wrote:
Do I need a new battery after 2 years?
Is the alternator not producing enough to run the bike?]
Is there a regulator problem?
Or is it more then one of these?

1. If your battery have been in bike for long time and clock was running all time, then battery surely went totally down, and then maybe You lost Your battery, caused by oxid to battery plates and then it DONT take charge anymore, It can be, that You lost Your battery... Check, how long time warranty You have in Your battery!

2. Regulator voltage MUST be checked every time You have some "battery problems" (with multimeter). This have been discussed many times here in this site....

3. Surely it can be! Sometimes faulty regulator kills both: battery AND stator wiring inside engine... I have replaced some...And that stator coast double than regulator....

Marinus · Post by **Marinus** » Mon Dec 18, 2006 12:05 am

I have run one big cable from the battery to the front, then split to two relays. One for high beam and one for low. Placing the relays close to the headlight on the back of the black plastic suround, then run thicker wires to a 70/75w bulb. The blue wire is low beam and the white wires are high.

Which of the two wires do I deviate through the relay?

I don't have a shop manual and the ones on line are all to unclear to see whats what?

I can see that one gose up to the dash and the other gose to the switch.

Should I run the dash light before or after the relay?

Headlight conversion

Thanks Antti

Thanks Guys .

Another problem

If only

Re: Another problem