MY 1992 907ie Rebuild was a tidy up now it's a full strip.

[ducbertus]

I think paintstripper is also a fine way to desintegrate your panels.
at least with bead blasting you have mor or less control over the process by using a less agresive abrasive and playing with air pressure.
But I must admit, I've seen once beadblasting plastic going horrible wrong

Still, I would opt for blasting

Bertus

[blazing928]

one issue with stripper is getting it out of the tiny cracks before priming. If not done well enough then the cracks will come back quicker, or worse whats left of the stripper will dissolve the new paint.

The blaster I am using has done lots of bike fairings, though he has never seen a material like the 907s before! It looks like a gel coated plastic to me.

Anyway after stripping I am putting a coat of POR15 clear over the fairing as a sealer and strengthener.
see " Permanent Painted Coatings" this is the Australian site, links to the USA site
http://www.ppcco.com.au/

You need POR15 Clear , not the "Glisten Clear"
The POR is stronger than polester resin, so you can also use some glass to repair the panel.
I have used it on my Alfa when I did a full restoration, It was a Alfetta GTAM with GP4 rally glass flares

The key to no cracks is as little paint as possible, on reason for the famous pink primer, less top coat to get a cover. POR15 is very flexible. Also check out the black as an alternative to powder coating.

Holdens here in OZ are now painted in the same colour primer as the top coat. The engine bay is primer not top coat!

[higgy]

POR has excellent products for any kind of restoration project. Kit prices are a good deal.
http://www.por15.com/

[Mc tool]

Thats uncanny ! My partially sanded fairing panels look just like yours, right down to the paint colours and the order in which they have been applied .Either the same guy has worked on both bikes or its a factory job .My fairing has damage , mostly to corners and some or the repair work is bad ,holes drilled along the edges of cracks /breaks , possibly in an attempt to " key " in the repair material. On account of how come ( boss hog ...... sorry )there is no other damage to my bike , footpegs , handle bars and exhausts are all ok , and the damage that is there doesnt look to me like crash damage either ....... maybe thats how it left the factory !???

[englishstiv]

I cannot believe how long it's been since I started this thread, however things have progressed a little (very little ) since my last post.

I have already posted elswhere a picture of my mates work replaceing the fork pressure adjuster however as you can see by the photo I now need to address the damage to the fork where the thread bore has been chipped away. Advice welcome?

The same friend also refurbished as an exchanged favour the front mudguard brace in stainless steel for me, the old one was well passed it's useful date and if you look at the fork leg you can see the damage the loose mudguard has caused by the deep score mark it left, wonderful previous owners this bike had.......not!!!! .







I will, if I get a chance post a picture of the partially sandblasted frame which if I can scrape the dosh together might get painted (by me in 2 pack Ducati Green) later this spring?

[ducbertus]

you have some work to do on the leg, that's fore sure.
one solution is to find a replacement in good condition.
otherwise you repair this one.
the valve thread is a welding job. prior to the welding you have clean throughly the surface and the remaining thread. Best done by glas blasting.
the mounting of the brace at the top of the leg can be welded as well, remodelling the shape by milling (Dremel?) or filing.
an other way could be removing the ring completely on a lathe and make a new ring from billet and shrink fit this new ring in the right place/position.

an other option can using 2 components liquid aluminium like Devcon Aluminium Putty (F). I've used that in the past a couple of times to repair chain marks on casings. worked well.
I'm not sure how this putty acts when exposed to stresses as in the fencer bracket area.

Bertus

[paso750]

I guess you can have the damage and the mark welded and remodelled if you find a good welder.
I don`t recommend glasbead blasting or media blasting on the fork legs even with low air pressure. The material is rather soft and it will roughen up the surface. I had that done on two forks. You´ll need to sand to get the surface even again. Better find another way.

G.

[ducbertus]

Glass bead blasting will give a smooth silky like glossy surface. I have blasted many parts by my self on cyl heads, fork legs and all other stuff prior to the paint job.
the benefit of glass used in a injector type of cabin at lower pressure is that the glass pearls don't break up fast. the amount of material removed by the glass bead is minimal
if you use the more aggresive aluminium or zirkonium oxide the situation is completely different

Bertus

[higgy]

there are other media besides glass to bead with. Nutshells will clean without marring the surface of most metals. The biggest issue with glass on metal is removing the residue left on the surface. If you dont get it completely clean you risk premature wearing of the contact surfaces....jm2c

[900streetfighter]

You mentioned in an earlier post you were going to use Maxton to service your forks. If you have the legs upgraded/modified by them they do away with the adjuster antidive looking gadget completely and cap it off, or at least they used to 15 yr ago when they did a 888 set I have.
Keith.

[907pasonut]

looks like you have a lot on your plate there stiv...KEEP AT IT!!

Anyway after stripping I am putting a coat of POR15 clear over the fairing as a sealer and strengthener.
see " Permanent Painted Coatings" this is the Australian site, links to the USA site
http://www.ppcco.com.au/

You need POR15 Clear , not the "Glisten Clear"
The POR is stronger than polester resin, so you can also use some glass to repair the panel.
I have used it on my Alfa when I did a full restoration, It was a Alfetta GTAM with GP4 rally glass flares

The key to no cracks is as little paint as possible, on reason for the famous pink primer, less top coat to get a cover. POR15 is very flexible. Also check out the black as an alternative to powder coating.

having used POR15 for my tank, I do belive their products are very good.
if I do repair the 851 fairing I will try the clear coat to seal the plastic B4 painting

[englishstiv]

Amazing how time flys by......................Finally got the frame and other tin work shot blasted, etched and sprayed Black last week and collected at the weekend and all for just £75.00...bargain!! I was going for a green and then a red frame but that would of meant me paying for and taking home a rather large box of powder and another £200.00 on the bill....Already started to put things back together but still a long way to go those forks to repair and panels to repair and paint and an engine to service some sand blasted wheels to get painted etc etc .................The bike rack fits nice and is attached to the frame though

[englishstiv]

Well another day and another part refurbished several weeks in the doing and for just £20.00, fully welded and cleaned up and then fitted with helicoil.............it may of helped that I spent nearly £500.00 in parts for my van engine though. But at least the job is done.
From this .......

To this ...........

another view

and as complete

[900streetfighter]

Thats a nice job done there. Can you get the bike up on 2 wheels now? A big leap forward and inspiration to get it finished.

[persempre907]

Do you have black sprayed also the red cap?